These pillion footrest rubbers are of the type shown in the 1955 Norton Spare Parts Catalog as being fitted to the swinging arm frame which was used for the Norton ES2, Model 19S and Dominator in the mid/late 1950's.

For this type of frame, the earlier (wider) pressed steel pillion footrest was replaced by a more normal 'bar' type footrest hanger - with this type of pillion footrest rubber. I cannot be sure, but I think this type of rubber was also used on Featherbed Internationals and Dominators. Price is per pair

This listing is for an alloy racing gearlever, complete with wasted gearbox bolt and locknut (to take lockwire) and correct SOHC Manx style gearlever rubber, to fit all Norton upright gearbox type splines - and has been faithfully reproduced from a genuine original SOHC Manx gearlever. 

As well as the gearlever itself, it comes complete with a very pretty 'wasted' racing type gearlever bolt (CNC'd in stainless steel), which has a deep head (as most Norton gearlever bolts did at that time), but counterbored to remove weight, and also drilled both top and bottom to accept lockwire, after a small locknut is fitted - so as not to come off through vibration.  The gearlever itself is threaded, but also comes with a locknut to help prevent the bolt loosening (as gearlever bolts are prone to do in use).  If you wish, the bolt thread is long enough for you to remove the locknut and fit a nyloc nut in its place.

Finally, the lever is fitted with a gearlever rubber of the same style as originally fitted to Manx Nortons in the 1940's (and one is shown fitted to the original lever, which may be original).  As a final bit of bling, we have added lockwire to the rubber - which was a common period fitting on race bikes.  We also supply 12 inches (approx) of lockwire in a small bag, to apply  to the bolt after fitting (as I have done in the main listing photograph).

These are not cheap, but hopefully you will agree that as well as being pretty, they are a quality reproduction of original and rare 'short' Norton SOHC (Manx type) gearlevers - which are themselves now extremely hard to find.  

(Note: we pack the assembled gear lever and lockwire in sealable bags to protect them in storage - with a small squirt of Duck Oil is sprayed in, this can be wiped off with a soft cloth on fitting, and a quick re-polish given if you want them shiny)

Background and Manufacturing Information:

The original gearlever this pattern was copied from came off a genuine upright Manx racing gearbox endcover, that came from an old colllector friend many years ago, who had a huge quantity of genuine Manx Norton parts and bikes, of both pre-war and postwar types (including some Works stuff).  The gearbox cover and original gearlever are shown in the fith photograph and when they came into my posession, looked like they had not been touched since last used in the 1950's.  Interestingly the original gearlever is cast alloy (and production quality, not homemade) and looks to have all the hallmarks of an original Manx lever, including the correct Norton spline. 

I had heard it was more normal for production pre-Featherbed Manx models to have cast steel gearbox levers fitted, although I think some alloy were made and also fitted to Works models.  I know the previous owner of this gearbox/gearlever had been collecting since the early 1960's and had some rare Works stuff in his collection - so just a small possibility it is a 'Works' type lever (and included is a picture of one of the 39-49 type Works bikes, which does look to have a very similar gearlever attached).  i am not sure if this is true  . . . but ours replicate the original pattern in shape and form exactly . .. and it is a nice story to tell anyone, if you have one of these fitted to your bike!

Manufacture: First I had boxed patterns made for this lever (from our excellent UK patternmaker - real craftsmen), and then a batch of levers were cast in Heat Treated LM25TF alloy from these.  We then had a spline broach manufactured by a specialist broaching company with the correct Norton (pre-AMC) type spline, this company then taking the part machined gearlevers to add the spline in the correct position (gearlever splines should have a small blank area either side of the slit, without teeth).  Following the spline being added, we then completed the machining operations (for which a number of jigs were made - see photos), and then the final levers were linished and polished. Therefore apologies these are not cheap - but the setup costs were substantial, but the result in a nice lever that is an exact copy of the SOHC Norton type they were modelled on.

As a final point - Normal roadgoing Inter models with forward mounted footrests and 'upright' style gearbox's, used the more normal style long curved gearlever (which we may stock again in the future), however, roadgoing non-Featherbed models using the 'Laydown' style of gearbox, used a cast steel lever which was of similar length and shape to these 'racing' type levers.  However, if you look at an original laydown gearbox lever (see last photo) - you will note that as the lever comes away from the spline boss, the pattern sits slightly upwards from centre (denoting it being a roadgoing type).  However, as can be seen in the final photograph, our lever alongside that standard type shows that if you cannot find a road type lever elsewhere - these could be used as a suitable substitute for that Laydown type gearbox.

 

Stainless Steel rear brake pedal pivot bolt and nut to fit OHV and Side Valve siingle cylinder models, and all pre Featherbed roadgoing models.  This is the pivot bolt that screws into the frame from which the rear brake pedal pivots.  If your brake pedal currently flops about, there is a good chance it is this pin that is worn

It is worth noting that there have been quite a few variations on this brake pivot bolt over the years, but this is type that was fitted to most (non SOHC) road going models.  

It is distinguishable by two features:

- The thread that screws into the frame is 1/2" x 20 tpi BSC (not 7/16" BSC as on SOHC models)

- The length of the shaft is 1.00" (one inch), which should be the width of hole on your brake pedal.  If your brake pedal is shorter (i.e. 0.885") then instead see item 0654 as that is a Manx type brake pedal. 

These brake pedals are CNC machined in-house and if I say so myself are quite nice! As well as not rusting, the stainless Hex will also improve the look in this area. 

They also come fitted with one of our special wide pan washers (dull nickel plated) which properly retains the brake pedal.  finally it also comes with stainless steel retaining nut.  At time of this listing being written (April 2017) we are supplying the pin with a 5/16" BSC Nyloc Nut, but as I am unable to obtain these any longer, once current stocks are gone we will supply with an in-house made extra depth stainless 5/16" Nut

If you have a SOHC International or SOHC Manx/M30 model see also items 0653 and 0654, as they are both different.  If you think you have a different variation, then please email at sales@racingvincent.co.uk as we may be able to offer those by special order

If you would like to see how we CNC machine these Brake Pedal Pivot Bolts then click on the following link to a short Youtube video of them being made: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVnjULA_zoM&feature=youtu.be

Stainless Steel rear brake pedal pivot bolt and nut to fit SOHC International models (Model 30 and Model 40) for Rigid and Gardengate framed models. This is the pivot bolt that screws into the frame from which the rear brake pedal pivots.  If your brake pedal currently flops about, there is a good chance it is this pin that is worn

It is worth noting that there have been quite a few variations on this brake pivot bolt over the years, but this is type that was most commonly fitted to SOHC road going models.  

It is distinguishable by two features:

- The thread that screws into the frame is 7/16" x 20 tpi BSC (not 1/2" BSC as on OHV/SV models)

- The length of the shaft is 1.00" (one inch), which should be the width of hole on your brake pedal.  If your brake pedal is shorter (i.e. 0.885") then instead see item 0654 as that is a Manx type brake pedal. 

These brake pedals are CNC machined in-house and if I say so myself are quite nice! As well as not rusting, the stainless Hex will also improve the look in this area. 

They also come fitted with one of our special wide pan washers (dull nickel plated) which properly retains the brake pedal.  finally it also comes with stainless steel retaining nut.  At time of this listing being written (April 2017) we are supplying the pin with a 5/16" BSC Nyloc Nut, but as I am unable to obtain these any longer, once current stocks are gone we will supply with an in-house made extra depth stainless 5/16" Nut

If you have a SOHC International model with a different Brake Pivot bolt to this, then see also items 0652 and 0654 as I gather sometimes other types were fitted.  If you think you have a different variation, then please email at sales@racingvincent.co.uk as we may be able to offer those by special order.  Final note, these may also fit Featherbed International models, but please check dimensions above

Stainless Steel rear brake pedal pivot bolt and nut to fit SOHC M30/M40 (i.e. pre-Featherbed Manx type) for Rigid and Gardengate framed models. This is the pivot bolt that screws into the frame from which the rear brake pedal pivotss.  If your brake pedal currently flops about, there is a good chance it is this pin that is worn

It is worth noting that there have been quite a few variations on this brake pivot bolt over the years, but this is type that was fitted to most racing models on rigid and Gardengate models - i.e. M30/M40 (magnesium crankcase) and SOHC Manx type (pre-Featherbed) racing models.  If you are not sure if this is the correct pin for your frame/brake pedal, see below (and the accompanying photograph of a Gardengate Manx brake pedal to compare to yours - note most Manx brake pedals had horizontal grooves on the brake pedal foot pad, while roadgoing models normally had criss-cross hatching).  

This M30/Gardengate Manx type pivot bolt s distinguishable by two features:

- The thread that screws into the frame is 7/16" x 20 tpi BSC (not 1/2" BSC as on OHV/SV models)

- The length of the shaft is 0.885", which should be the width of hole on your brake pedal.  If your brake pedal is longer in the shaft hole (i.e. 1.00" or one inch) then instead see item 0653 as that is an International type brake pedal. 

- As a final point: if you are not sure what the normal M30/Manx brake pedal pivot bolt frame fixing looked like, attached is a picture of the brake pin casting on my 1949 Gardengate Manx frame (in a fetching shade of green paint)

These brake pedals are CNC machined in-house and if I say so myself are quite nice! As well as not rusting, the stainless Hex will also improve the look in this area. 

They also come fitted with washer and stainless steel retaining nut.  At time of this listing being written (April 2017) we are supplying the pin with a 5/16" BSC Nyloc Nut, but as I am unable to obtain these any longer, once current stocks are gone we will supply with an in-house made extra depth stainless 5/16" Nut

If you would like to see how we CNC machine these Brake Pedal Pivot Bolts then click on the following link to a short Youtube video of them being made: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SVnjULA_zoM&feature=youtu.be

 

Is your original Norton rear brake pedal worn and flopping around?  If so, then I am sure you are used to the vague wobbly feeling it gives, as well as reducing the leverage that can be applied to the rear brake.

Replacing the brake pedal pivot bolt with one of our new stainless steel pins (items 0652, 0653 or 0654) will help improve things, but if the original brake pedal is worn, you will only be getting part of the benefit unless you do something about the worn brake pedal as well.  This CNC manufactured phospher bronze bearing is available to resolve this issue, it having the same 0.5" internal bore as the original pedal bore, so will restore the brake pedal to its original 'as new' tolerance.

This bearing is meant for those Norton brake pedals of 1.00" width and 0.5" brake pin diameter - i.e. most SOHC, OHV, SV and twin models from the 1930's to 1960's - but check your original brake pedal is the same dimension.  This is the correct bearing if fitting either our 0652 or 0653 pivot bolts.  Many pre-Featherbed competition models (M30 and Manx) had a slimmer brake pin width of 0.885" - if you required the slimmer width, then order item 0739 instead (and pivot bolt 0654).

Fitting Hints:

We assume anyone fitting these bearings will already have relevent mechanical/engineering experience to know how to prepare the original brake pedal for this new bearing - but below are some notes to help.  If you do not have relevent experience or tooling to take on this job yourself, I would recommend taking it to a local engineering company, whom I am sure could easily do it for you:

- Outer diameter of bearing is also an imperial size: 0.625" (or 5/8").  It is actually half to 1 thou over this, to allow an interference fit of the new bearing.  Internal diameter of bearing is a slide fit over our 0.5" brake pedal pivot bolts, as supplied

- We would advise bore the original brake pedal pivot bolt hole out to a size slightly smaller than 0.625" first (in the accompanying photographs we used a 15.5mm drill bit in a pillar drill).  Be extremely careful when doing this, and try and mount the brake pedal in a fixture so it cannot easily grab and rotate the brake pedal (and always wear eye protection) - follow all normal health and safety rules in doing this.  Once pre-bored, the final hole can then be reamed out with a 0.625" reamer.  In the photograph we are using a 0.625" hand reamer with a large tap wrench and plenty of light oil cutting fluid

- Use a vertical press if you have one, to press the new bearing in, flush with the back face of the brake pedal.  There is a larger chamfer on one end of the bearing to assist with this.  If you do not have a vertical press/bench press, then a strong vice with soft jaws mounted should suffice.  If your hole opened up slightly and it is not a press fit all its length, it may be worth also applying Loctite Bearing fit/Retaining fluid on the external face of the new bearing when pressing it in.

- The new bearing is a nice 'size' slide fit on our brake pedal pivot bolts as supplied.  However, dependent on the tolerance of the hole you have bored in the brake pedal, after pressing the new bearing in - you should test that the new bearing has not 'closed up' fractionally and is tight on the pin - if so, you should lightly hand ream the new bearing (0.5" reamer) so it is a nice slide fit on the pivot bolt.  This is standard engineering practice when press fitting any plain bronze bushes. 

- Once fitted, it is a good idea to carefully remove the grease nipple on the brake pedal and re- drill the bearing oiling hole to allow for future greasing of the brake pedal

Item listing is for one bearing (brake pedal pivot bolt kit sold seperately)

Is your original Norton rear brake pedal worn and flopping around?  If so, then I am sure you are used to the vague wobbly feeling it gives, as well as reducing the leverage that can be applied to the rear brake.

Replacing the brake pedal pivot bolt with one of our new stainless steel pins (items 0652, 0653 or 0654) will help improve things, but if the original brake pedal is worn, you will only be getting part of the benefit unless you do something about the worn brake pedal as well.  This CNC manufactured phospher bronze bearing is available to resolve this issue, it having the same 0.5" internal bore as the original pedal bore, so will restore the brake pedal to its original 'as new' tolerance.

This bearing is meant for those competition Norton brake pedals of 0.885" width and 0.5" brake pin diameter - i.e. only the type fitted to some competition rigid and plunger framed M30 and pre-featherbed Manx models. This is not a common brake pedal - most brake pedals have a width of 1,00", but if you have one of the slimmer competition type - this is the correct bearing, and will fit pivot bolt 0654.  If you have a wider 1" brake pedal pin, then go to item 0738 instead

Fitting Hints:

We assume anyone fitting these bearings will already have relevent mechanical/engineering experience to know how to prepare the original brake pedal for this new bearing - but below are some notes to help.  If you do not have relevent experience or tooling to take on this job yourself, I would recommend taking it to a local engineering company, whom I am sure could easily do it for you:

- Outer diameter of bearing is also an imperial size: 0.625" (or 5/8").  It is actually half to 1 thou over this, to allow an interference fit of the new bearing.  Internal diameter of bearing is a slide fit over our 0.5" brake pedal pivot bolts, as supplied

- We would advise bore the original brake pedal pivot bolt hole out to a size slightly smaller than 0.625" first (in the accompanying photographs we used a 15.5mm drill bit in a pillar drill).  Be extremely careful when doing this, and try and mount the brake pedal in a fixture so it cannot easily grab and rotate the brake pedal (and always wear eye protection) - follow all normal health and safety rules in doing this.  Once pre-bored, the final hole can then be reamed out with a 0.625" reamer.  In the photograph we are using a 0.625" hand reamer with a large tap wrench and plenty of light oil cutting fluid

- Use a vertical press if you have one, to press the new bearing in, flush with the back face of the brake pedal.  There is a larger chamfer on one end of the bearing to assist with this.  If you do not have a vertical press/bench press, then a strong vice with soft jaws mounted should suffice.  If your hole opened up slightly and it is not a press fit all its length, it may be worth also applying Loctite Bearing fit/Retaining fluid on the external face of the new bearing when pressing it in.

- The new bearing is a nice 'size' slide fit on our brake pedal pivot bolts as supplied.  However, dependent on the tolerance of the hole you have bored in the brake pedal, after pressing the new bearing in - you should test that the new bearing has not 'closed up' fractionally and is tight on the pin - if so, you should lightly hand ream the new bearing (0.5" reamer) so it is a nice slide fit on the pivot bolt.  This is standard engineering practice when press fitting any plain bronze bushes. 

- Once fitted, it is a good idea to carefully remove the grease nipple on the brake pedal and re- drill the bearing oiling hole to allow for future greasing of the brake pedal

Item listing is for one bearing (brake pedal pivot bolt kit sold seperately)

Final point - the picture of the brake pedal in the 3rd and 4th photos are actually a wider 1" brake pedal (used for listing 0738), but the slimmer width M30/Manx type is very similar, although dependent on year - are often straighter to the pedal, and the pedal of competition models normally have a straight cut, rather than the criss-cross pattern of road models.  The arm holding the brake rod can vary in length and angle dependent on the type of frame originally intended for,

This is the spring that was fitted in the mid/late 1920's up to approximately 1930-31, for those models that were fitted with the large right side mounted rear brake drum (which I believe were supplied by Royal Enfield originally), and then used a one piece crossover shaft attached to the brake pedal - so a left foot brake pedal could be used. See the attached pictures, taken from the 1929 CS1/ES2 Norton Spare Parts List - which show the brake pedal and associated parts for the rear brake mechanism - and shows clearly the spring offered here - Original Part Number 4504.

 

As shown in the catalog - it was standard fitment on the Norton 3 - stay frame up until Norton introduced their own brake drums and mechanism in approximately 1931/32 on the left side of the bike- at which time they changed over to what become the standard brake pedal with return spring mounted on the brake plate.  Therefore the later 3 stay frames with combined rear hub/sprocket should not need this type of spring.

Other models (i.e. OHV and possibly some SV) with two stay rear frame, but also employing the brake hub on the Timing side of the bike, and a crossover shaft/brake pedal will also have employed this spring - and our original Norton pattern shown in the second photograph - which was used as the pattern for replicating this spring came from a 1930/31 Model 18.  There is also a picture of a restored 1930 Model 18, so you can see the type of brake mechanism that fitted this type of spring.

 

The spring fits onto the crossoveer shaft of the brake pedal and loops onto the frame tube, it being fitted on the brake lever side of the crossover shaft.

 

This is now an extremely rare spring to find in its original form and ours are copied directly from an original Norton pattern by our specialist UK spring manufacturer.  Not as cheap as some springs - as setup costs are high for a relatively small batch quantity . . . but hopefully if you have an original with corrosion or broken . .. at least you know this one is correct! 

nd brake pedal.  This spring fits behind the brake pedal and has a loop that acts on the frame tube.  This spring is copied from an original Norton pattern - see listing for more detail.  Price is Each 

Price is each.

We used a genuine original Sturmey Archer (for Norton models) kickstart spring for the pattern for manufacturing these springs - so they are as per originals.

This spring is unusual, in that it is has forward facing tang and loop, which fed through a hole in the kickstart spring cover (see accompanyning photos), and then looped behind the shaft of the kickstart lever.  The length that this tang protruded is important, as other Sturmey Archer gearbox's had a similar spring - but with a shorter length protruding (see also Item 1064).

The length the tang protrudes on this spring is approximately: 44mm

The outer diameter of the spring is approximately: 47.5mm

It is difficult to be definitive about exactly which Sturmey Archer Gearbox's and models this spring was fitted to - but it is certainly of the type that was fitted to the sporting Norton Models from 1927 through to approximately 1932 - as it is listed in the 1927/28 Norton Spare Parts catalog for Walter Moore type CS1 and ES2 models.  At this point the spring was shown as part number 4585.  I cannot be entirely sure - but I believe the gearbox was known as the CRS type gearbox (please email me if you think I have got this wrong!).

It was then shown again in the 1930-31 Spare Parts Catalog, by which time this gearbox was now being fitted to the newly introduced Arthur Carroll type SOHC CS1 engine, as well as the ES2 models.  By this time the part number had changed to 5X44. See accompanyning photos for exerts of both these catalog pictures.

The following year (i.e. 1932) the Sturmey Archer 4 speed gearbox was introduced for the SOHC Mod30/40 models with a different kickstarter spring type (see Item 1066) - but the 3 speed gearbox was still listed for the CS1 models - so although I cannot be sure if the spring design changed, the 1932 3 speed may have continued to use this spring type - and it may have also been used on other models at that point in time (again, please email if you have a 3 speed of 1932-34 design and can confirm this, thx).

This spring may have also been fitted to other manufacturers models fitted with Sturmey Archer 3 speed gearbox's from mid 1920's to early 1930's - if unsure, the important dimensions to check are shown above - the distance the tang protrudes to reach the kickstarter shaft, and the width of the spring (and again - I would be happy to update this listing if anyone knows of other models using it).

 

As a final point - as at time of the writing this listing (Jan 2022) - I am in the process of having a small batch of the spring covers manufactured - as shown in the centre of the photo with the springs and covers together.  These were tin covers (although we may need to machine from solid), with a hole for the forward facing tang to protrude.  Email us on sales@racingvincent.co.uk if you wish to reserve one.

 

This is now an extremely difficult spring to find, and many original gearbox's are likely to be suffering with the original spring worn and tired - this new spring should help revitalise the kickstart lever returning! 

- Fabricated bracket that secures Internatonal half curve oil tank to the frame bracket underneath the saddle - This item is lasercut to the same pattern as shown in the 1989 Norton catalog. Note the pre-war up to 1948 oil tank is visually very similar to the post 48 oil tank, but is easily identifiable because the left battery side is completely flat, without the indented panel of the later tank, see the second photograph

- Fabricated bracket that secures Internatonal half curve oil tank to the frame bracket underneath the saddle - This item is lasercut to the same pattern as shown in the 1949 Norton catalog and is copied from an original item. Note the post 1948 oil tank is visually very similar to the earlier oil tank, but is easily identifiable because the left battery side has an indented panel, see the second photograph