This steel fine-threaded ring with 4 distinctive holes (to allow the ring to be rotated and locked) was fitted to the none-brake side of Norton hubs on all models from the 1930's through to the late 1950's, to retain the wheel bearing.
It is normal when trying to remove an original ring, to find that the small holes have been badly chewed, because a punch has been used to lock them in the past - therefore making removal very difficult and re-fitting and locking in place even more so. Because of this (and most owners not having the correct tool for tightening the ring in place), finding original rings in good usable condition is now very difficult.
These rings are CNC machined by us from EN8 steel, to the same pattern and dimensons as the original Norton item - an original bearing retainer ring, being used as the pattern. The rings come with a light coating of chemical blacking and sprayed in light oil to prevent rust.
Price is each.
Models and Fitting Information:
This bearing ring was used on both front and rear Norton wheels for most models (both singles and twins) from the 1930's through to the late 1950's (other than DOHC Manx magnesium conical hubs, which used slightly different rings). It was normally fitted on the side of the hub that did not have the brake drum on it - i.e. the plain side (and the 1948 Spare Parts list describes this ring as the 'Hub bearing locking ring plain side'). The opposite (with brake drum) normally had a different arrangement, where the bearing was just pressed in, then a pressed steel dust ring was tapped in place and 4 punch marks were made to retain it (we also seel this pressed steel ring - Item 0312).
in both cases - a felt ring bearing protector (our Item 0311) was held behind the rings, to stop dirt and grit getting into the bearing.
This steel ring should be carefully threaded into the hub once the bearing is fitted, until the rear shoulder of the ring meets firmly with the outer race of the wheel bearing.
It should be noted that these rings were originally supposed to be fitted with a special fitting tool, like the one shown in some of the accompanyning photographs. However, in practice - almost every one I have ever removed from an original hub has shown signs of being tightened with a centre punch! - no doubt because a previous owner did not have the correct tool. Although I cannot advocate using a punch to tighten the new ring in place - it is not unusual to do so, but if at all possible - use a tool with pins like the one in the photograph.
Special note when fitting: These rings have a fine thread and care should be taking when engaging with the thread on the hub - to ensure the ring does not start cross threaded. It is also very common to find the thread on the original hub has burr marks (particularly on the rear hubs as in this photograph, where there are tabs to engage the speedometer drive), or punch marks - therefore make sure these have been carefully de-burred before trying to fit a new ring.
Update Aug 2021: The fitting tool with pins in the photograph is one I have had for many years, and is shown to illustrate how rings should be fitted - it is not included in this listing (which is for the ring only). However, we may shortly be getting a batch of locking ring spanners manufactured - email on firstname.lastname@example.org. to engquire