This listing is for a complete headrace bearing set, to fit those Norton models fitted with Norton girder forks - from approximately 1931 to those still being supplied with girder forks in 1946.

The set consists of 4 hardened headrace bearings and two sets of ball bearings. Original Norton girder fork headraces were used as the pattern for manufacturing these and all dimensions are the same.

Three of the races are identical and have a grease track and a small hole in the track, to allow for greasing from the frame and top crown grease nipples. This type are fitted to both sides of the top race (girder fork top crown and upper frame race), as well as the bottom race frame race.

The fourth race does not have a small hole, and this race is intended to be fitted to the base of the girder fork steering stem, as shown in one of the photographs (this is specific to the girder fork models - if you have a telescopic fork model see listing 0913). This race also has its inner face ground to the exact dimensions of original races.

As shown in the photographs bearing races are supplied with the ball race area smeared in Castrol moly grease to protect them from rusting in storage.  I find this is also a good grease to use for headraces on assembly (note in some photographs 2 bags of balls are shown - but there is one bag supplied with enough balls for two races + 1 additional ball in case you lose one on assembly)

Fitting Tips:

- To fit these races - you must first remove old races (often they can be tapped out with punches just reaching the inners faces of the old races on the frame or outer race on the fork stem.  It is important to try and tap them out centrally to avoid damaging/opening out bearing housings any more than necessary 

- When fitting new races, remove all traces of paint, rust or rough edges from the areas to receive the new races.  For the girder fork stem, check the inner face is not marked or worn and try and ensure the new race is placed over centrally - ideally they should be a light tap on.  To help with this the race can be warmed in an oven first.  If the fork stem bearing face is worn or damaged - a small amount of bearing fit fluid may help to retain them (this is not uncommon unfortunately, as original girder forks are now at least 75 years old)

- For fitting headraces into frames (or top crown) - again, ensure receptor area is fully cleaned of rust and dirt first.  It is important to ensure the greasing hole in the 3 races to go in frame and top crown are lined  up with the relevent grease nipple holes - otherwise it will not be possible to grease them in future without stripping

- To fit these races into frame and top crown - I first place races into a freezer for an hour or so (to contract as much as possible) and then normally use a soft aluminum drift, as shown in the photo - to ensure an even pressure is applied to the entire bearing face.  Do not hit bearing races directly with a hammer as this could damage them.  When tapping them in ensure they are seated squarly and fully down on the bottom face.  Pack races with clean grease on assembly

This listing is for a complete headrace bearing set, to fit those Norton models fitted with telescopic forks - from approximately 1947 to 1957. 

This type of headrace set was fitted to all rigid, plunger and swinging arm chassis - both Single Cylinder models and Domintor twins. 

Sorry, I am not an expert on later Featherbed roadgoing models and later twins - they may have continued to be the same type fitted to these models as well, so if you wish to fit these to a later model please email and we can provide dimensions.

The set consists of 4 hardened headrace bearings and two sets of ball bearings. Original Norton telescopic fork headraces (from Norton single 'Long' Roadholder forks) were used as the pattern for manufacturing these and all dimensions are the same to the originals.

The two frame races have a grease track and a small hole in the track, to allow for greasing from the frame.  The 3rd one of this type fits on the base of the fork stem (this still has a hole in the track - but fits flush against base of the fork crown - so hole is blind).  The fourth race does not have a greasing hole and the inner face of the bearing race is a larger diameter than the other 3 races.  This is to allow the large crown nut shoulder used on telescopic forks to slide fit into this inner bearing race face - see accompanyning photograph. 

It should be noted that between this top crown nut (which fits under the top stanchion crown) and the top headrace bearing is fitted a pressed steel cover, to stop dirt getting into the bearings.  There were two types of covers and we can provide these as well if required - the normal deeper roadgoing type (Item 0872 in our catalog) and a shallower version on Manx Norton models (Item 0873). 

As shown in the photographs bearing races are supplied with the ball race area smeared in Castrol moly grease to protect them from rusting in storage.  I find this is also a good grease to use for headraces on assembly (note in some photographs 2 bags of balls are shown - but there is one bag supplied with enough balls for two races + 1 additional ball in case you lose one on assembly)

Fitting Tips:

- To fit these races - you must first remove old races (often they can be tapped out with punches just reaching the inners faces of the old races on the frame or outer race on the fork stem.  It is important to try and tap them out centrally to avoid damaging/opening out bearing housings any more than necessary 

- When fitting new races, remove all traces of paint, rust or rough edges from the areas to receive the new races.  For the fork stem, check the inner face is not marked or worn and try and ensure the new race is placed over centrally - ideally they should be a light tap on.  To help with this the race can be warmed in an oven first.  If the fork stem bearing face is worn or damaged - a small amount of bearing fit fluid may help to retain them (I have a couple of original tele forks columns and found slight differences in wear on both - as they are many years old), but our races are made with the same inner race diameter as the original hardened race diameter.  On the steering stem in the photograph which has minimal wear, after cleaning the stem base and bearing retaining area, the bottom race went on with light taps with a rawhide mallet, tapping radially in turn, to ensure the race went on evenly

- For fitting headraces into frames - again, ensure receptor area is fully cleaned of rust and dirt first.  It is important to ensure the greasing hole in the 3 races to go in frame and top crown are lined  up with the relevent grease nipple holes - otherwise it will not be possible to grease them in future without stripping

- To fit these races into frame - I first place races into a freezer for an hour or so (to contract as much as possible) and then normally use a soft aluminum drift, as shown in the photo - to ensure an even pressure is applied to the entire bearing face.  Do not hit bearing races directly with a hammer as this could damage them.  When tapping them in ensure they are seated squarly and fully down on the bottom face.  Pack races with clean grease on assembly

This is the top nut that was fitted on Norton International and M30 (i.e. Competition pre-war Manx) model steering columns, those being fitted with Andre Dampers - identifiable by the large hole in the centre.  These are CNC manufactured from stainless steel using a genuine Norton nut as the pattern.

As it is now very difficult to obtain the original large Whitworth size hex bar in stainless steel, these nuts are turned and then milled from a solid billet - but the result being a very pretty nut in stainless, that faithfully replicates the original nut and 3/4" Whit hex form.

Sorry this is not the cheapest of items, but the setup costs and the amount of time spent checking original items for fitting reflect the final price.  We make this nut from a solid stainless billet (see final photographs) and it required two soft collets to be machined to hold the billets through the different machining operations.  However, where the most time was spent, was checking the internal thread of this large nut against original Norton girder fork steering columns - where a large variation in threads was found. 

Background Information and Steering Head Thread Chasing:

As you can imagine - any original Norton girder fork steering head will be at least 80 years old now and possibly more.  When checking the thread of of original steering heads, we found numerous variations in tolerance, and some steering heads which obviously had a worn or undersize thread. After trying against numerous original steering head threads we found the most common thread tolerance - which resulted in a good smooth fit, but was not too loose, as you can see in the photographs, we then created Stop/Go threaded plugs to ensure the nuts offered in this item meet that tolerance.  

Each nut is CNC machined from solid Stainless 303 and the correct imperial hex flat milled.  The finish is excellent, and they much improve the finish of your pre-war International.  

Please note: it is important you check your original thread is in good condition before attempting to fit this nut.  If the original thread is corroded or ripped (as many original steering columns we checked as part of this manufacturing process were), then it is likely to damage the thread of this nut - and sorry, but once you attempted to do this, we cannot accept Returns.

To help with this - if you have doubts about the condition of your original steering head thread - then the correct 1.125" BSC Die can be obtained from Tracy Tools, see their website at: https://www.tracytools.com/

This can be used to 'chase' the original thread before fitting the new nut.  I have used this company for specialist BSC (and other sizes) tap and dies for 30 years and they are excellent.  

Final point:  As part of this machining process, we did manufacture a couple of nuts with oversize threads (for those steering columns that had bad threads and would need heavily chasing - I had one such column myself).  If you think you may require an oversize nut, email us on our normal sales@racingvincent.co.uk to check for availability.

This is the top nut that was fitted on Norton Sidevalve (SV), Overhead Valve (OHV) and CS1 models - in fact all girder fork models that were fitted with the bakelite Norton type steering damper - the rod of this assembly fitting through this nut.  These are CNC manufactured from stainless steel using a genuine Norton nut as the pattern.

As it is now very difficult to obtain the original large Whitworth size hex bar in stainless steel, these nuts are turned and then milled from a solid billet - but the result being a very pretty nut in stainless, that faithfully replicates the original nut and 3/4" Whit hex form.

Sorry this is not the cheapest of items, but the setup costs and the amount of time spent checking original items for fitting reflect the final price.  We make this nut from a solid stainless billet (see final photographs) and it required two soft collets to be machined to hold the billets through the different machining operations.  However, where the most time was spent, was checking the internal thread of this large nut against original Norton girder fork steering columns - where a large variation in threads was found. 

Background Information and Steering Head Thread Chasing:

As you can imagine - any original Norton girder fork steering head will be at least 80 years old now and possibly more.  When checking the thread of of original steering heads, we found numerous variations in tolerance, and some steering heads which obviously had a worn or undersize thread. After trying against numerous original steering head threads we found the most common thread tolerance - which resulted in a good smooth fit, but was not too loose, as you can see in the photographs, we then created Stop/Go threaded plugs to ensure the nuts offered in this item meet that tolerance.  

Each nut is CNC machined from solid Stainless 303 and the correct imperial hex flat milled.  The finish is excellent, and they much improve the finish of your pre-war girder forked model.  In the accompanyning photographs I have included an original Norton nut in the normal 'rough' condition, as a comparision to our nut in stainless steel.  Our nut is fitted to an original damper assembly (although admittedly - the assembly I used for this photograph had a broken bakelite knob).

Please note: it is important you check your original thread is in good condition before attempting to fit this nut.  If the original thread is corroded or ripped (as many original steering columns we checked as part of this manufacturing process were), then it is likely to damage the thread of this nut - and sorry, but once you attempted to do this, we cannot accept Returns.

To help with this - if you have doubts about the condition of your original steering head thread - then the correct 1.125" BSC Die can be obtained from Tracy Tools, see their website at: https://www.tracytools.com/

This can be used to 'chase' the original thread before fitting the new nut.  I have used this company for specialist BSC (and other sizes) tap and dies for 30 years and they are excellent.  

Final point:  As part of this machining process, we did manufacture a couple of nuts with oversize threads (for those steering columns that had bad threads and would need heavily chasing - I had one such column myself).  If you think you may require an oversize nut, email us on our normal sales@racingvincent.co.uk to check for availability.

These are the distinctive Norton girder fork - deep hex bolt and grease nipple that were sometimes fitted to the top spindle area of the front blades, and top crown clamp - which allow for greasing of the top girder fork spindles.  They are CNC manufactured using the correct imperial spanner size stainless steel to the original dimensions as original (one of which is shown in the photographs). 

The original style of grease nipple is used - but originally these would have had 3/16" diameter thread - which do not look to be available any more with the original 'silver' plated finish, so the grease nipples shown here are of 1/4" BSF thread, but have a head shape of virtually the same head shape and colour as originals.

Price of these is each. 

Background:

Some years ago I was able to purchase some original Norton versions of these distinctive nuts - which were believed to be Ex-WD16H (see photograph).  I believe they were used as greasing points for the top forward spindle of the fork blade, which had two 5/16" BSC holes for this purpose.  But using this type of steel nut with a grease nipple mounted in it allowed for it to be used to retain the speedometer bracket (or similar - it is normally used on racing Nortons as a retaining poiont for the racing number plate brackets) - which could not easily be achieved with a 5/16" thread grease nipple alone.

I have also shown them fitted to the two similar 5/16" threaded holes that were used to retain the handlebar clamp on those girder fork variants that used the Top Crown that held rubber mounted handlebars - this type of fork was more commonly seen fitted to Norton International's and late 1930's Norton singles.  In truth - I am not sure if they were originally used in this location on that variant of fork - but as when I have purchased original nuts in the past, they were sold as a bag of 4 - I am supposing they could be used for the two top clamp spindle holes as well.

The original nuts (one shown in the photograph) were bored to take the slightly smaller 3/16" thread vertical grease nipples - but these now seem to be unobtainable in the original 'silver' coloured plating finish - instead, the 3/16" thread type commercially available today all have a more modern gold coloured plating - which does not look correct on period Norton items.

Therefore, ours are bored to take fractionally larger 1/4" thread diameteter nipples (whcih we obtain specially from a UK source in silver coloured plating).  These grease nipples externally look very little different in external dimensions to the original type, therefore the overall effect is no different.

As will all our special fastenings, these are CNC manufactured with the correct Imperial 'across flats' Hex for Whitworth spanners and have the same greasing bore hole as originals.  Finally, we lightly linish the stainless hex after machining to give a nice crisp finish and remove any burrs.  The finsihed effect is a very pretty and practical bolt/greasing point.

We assemble the grease nipple in the hex nut so they are ready to use, and as a final touch also apply one of our high quality 1/4" red fibre washers (Item 0097) under the nipple head to prevent leakage, as you should do with any grease nipple.  It also gives a more professional finish which should smarten up the front end of your girder forked bike.   

These are the drain plugs fitted into the base of the alloy fork legs on Longtype Roadholder Telescopic Forks - as fitted to most single cylinder models up to the late 1950's, and which allow the fork oil to be drained. 

These items are CNC machined in stainless steel to the original thread size and tolerance, with a nice quality head and milled slot in stainless steel. Original Long roadholder fork alloy sliders and an original Norton drain plug screw were used as patterns to test the tolerance and fit of these screws when manufacturing.  It should be noted that the length of thread on these screws is quite important, and there is a slight recess behind the thread - to ensure the screws lock fully against the fibre washers and do not protrude into the oil reservoir area of the slider (this is just visible in one of the accmpanyning photographs - looking down the internal length of the slider - the hole with thread cut can just be seen, but the head of the screw does not protrude past the wall of the thread bore).  

Each pair comes with 4 of our high quality red fibre washers - 2 per screw. These washers are from a high quality manufacturer and fitting two seeems to give just the right level of grip.  Price is for a pair of screws and 4 fibre washers.

Note:  It is important to note that these screws have 1/4" x 26tpi thread - as was originally fitted to early Norton (Long) Roadholder Forks, as fitted to most Single Cylinder Norton models to the late 1950's.  At some point in later years (possibly the 1960's) - Norton's changed the thread of the drain plugs - I have heard to UNF, but rumours that other threads may have been used.  Please satisfy yourself that your alloy sliders require this type of thread before fitting. 

This item is the large diameter threaded brake pin that was screwed into the right hand side alloy fork slider on telescopic fork Manx Norton models, when fitted with the large conical type magnesium Manx Norton brake hub. 

These are CNC manufactured in stainless steel - but as can be seen from the photo - are supplied with the actual brake plate pin left in its un-milled state, as the slot for the brake plate should only be milled once the pin is screwed into position in the fork leg.  

As the Manx type fork leg is very uncommon - we would not normally manufacture an item as unusual as this, but as both myself and a good friend required new ones for our own project bikes, we have made a small batch for sale.  Therefore I have also included a few photographs of the steps I took to fit one of these pegs to an original early type Manx Norton alloy sider (i.e. approximate 1949 type - signified by the fork stay stud holes being vertical, they switched to horizontal positioned studs circa 1950) which I have.

The thread is a BSCycle thread, but the important point to note is that original Manx Norton brake pegs were 'pinned' as can be seen in the accompanyning photographs, therefore if you are removing an original pin for replacement - it is important to remove the pin first, or trying to remove the brake pin without doing so could damage the fork leg or original thread.

We supply the pin with the peg portion left as a cylinder - as this should not be milled to fit the slot of your Manx Norton brake plate until it is fully threaded and tightened into place on the fork leg - it can then be final machined or filed to the same width as your brake plate.  Finally these pegs should be drilled and pinned into position as per the original pins, to ensure there is no chance of them loosening or unwinding in use.  On the fork leg shown in the photograph, the original pin diameter was 0.125" - but you must check your own fork leg and satisfy yourself this is correct for your own bike.

You will notice in the final photograph that when refitting the pin to my own Manx restoration project, I actually drilled and threaded the hole to take a small hex head screw - rather than a pin, as I personally do not like blind pins - but that is the individuals choice.  I also used thread lock when screwing the pin into the fork leg, to further reduce the chance of the pin loosening- again, personal choice.

These pins are CNC manufactured in stainless steel so should not rust.

Final Point:  It is assumed that anyone buying this item has full workshop equipment and is fully conversant with good engineering practice.  We recommend that if this is not the case - you do not attempt this job yourself as this could damage the fork leg or comprimise the braking operation - and obviously it is done fully at the customers own responsibility .  It is also imporant to ensure that when fitting pins, no part of the pin is adversly rubbing or fouling any other part of the brake plate or hub in operation - as it is not unusual to have small differences in fit over the various years this design was fitted

This item is for a full set of relacement springs to fit the Norton 'Gardengate' (1938-54) Plunger frame rear plunger units. 

They are UK manufactured for us by a specialist spring manufacturer who has been involved in the making of springs for historic makes for many years and are excellent quality.  A set of genuine original Norton plungers springs were used as the template - and ours match the gauge and poundage of these originals.

In the accompanying photographs is a picture of the type of frame these springs fit - this being known as the 'Gardengate' frame which was introduced in late 1938, and was used for various Norton models, through until (approximately) 1954.  This type of frame should not be confused with the earlier (and much less common) 'Big Plunger' frame which was only produced for some SOHC/ES2 models in 1937/38 - if you have one of these types of frame, sorry - that frame uses very different springs to these.  The frame in the photograph is a 1948/49 Manx frame - and was used to supply the original springs (as I knew they were original  - probably not stripped for 50 years, but also would have had very little use), however, the same springs were fitted to all Norton models using this type of frame.

The set of 4 springs  - consists of two thicker 'Compression' springs (these fit above the alloy sliders) and two slimmer 'Rebound' springs (that fit below the alloy sliders).  Needless to say, you should be extremely careful when stripping old springs and fitting new ones - always wear eye protection and be aware that the springs can fly out, as can the covers.  

I have removed many plunger units in the past - and often found that the original plunger springs are badly worn and tired (particularly on a well used road bike) - or sometimes even fitted with non original springs.  If your springs are tired or worn then replacing them with a set of these springs should return your bikes rear suspension to the original Norton fresh specification

Final point - I may be having the rear plunger covers manufactured shortly - if possible using stainless steel for the polished covers.  If you are interested in a set of these - email us at sales@racingvincent.co.uk, it may be useful to gauge the demand for these items 

This item is for a full set of Gardengate Plunger springs covers, UK manufacured in stainless steel.  The four covers that would have originally have been chromed come polished.  See detail listing for more information

These items have been UK manufactured by a specialist who also makes similar covers for other one make clubs.  They are spun and then TIG welded from stainless steel and are made to a very high quality.

When they come to us, we then remove the welding seam (but this should be pointed inwards, when fitting, so no trace of the seam weld is visible) and then the 4 covers that would originally have been chromed steel are polished on stainless polishing mops to a similar finish to the original chrome items. The other 4 covers (which originally would have been painted gloss black) are supplied unpolished, ready for painting.  All 8 covers are supplied individually wrapped in paper to prevent any scratches in storage.

These covers are identical in form to the original Norton covers, except, being manufactured from stainless steel, they are harder wearing than the original mild steel covers and will not rust.

The accompanyning photographs show the plunger covers fitted to an original Norton plunger casting - and they are sided as the originals so they fit nicely over the conical alloy casting in the middle part, or the steel shaft at the outermost ends.

These are not the cheapest of covers, but being spun (and welded) stainless steel, are expensive to manufacture.  However they are nicely made - and as the original Norton covers (as shown on the left side in the last photograph) wear badly - and have often corroded through, or just worn away on one side, these are an excellent replacement that will last for many years.  Note, I only have limited sets of these covers available

We also sell replacement springs for these Gardengate Norton plunger frames - again, original Norton springs being used as  patterns and UK manufactured by specialist spring manufacturers - Item 0829 - therefore as both original springs and covers tend to wear badly, these two items together offer a complete replacement. 

I have held one set of these back for myself and will fit them to my own 1939 Gardengate Manx Norton, which is shown in the photograph.  When I have painted them and come to fit them, I will take photographs and add to this listing.  E-mail us at sales@racingvincent.co.uk if you require information on how to remove and refit springs/covers in Gardengate frames.

Update Nov 2022:  We sold out of these in April this year, we are now having a new (small) batch manufactured.  Please email quickly on sales@racingvincent.co.uk if you wish to reserrve a set, quoting this Item reference - as we are trying to confirm the number to have made (the material is very expensive with current price increases). Price showing is still the previous price - expect this to rise by at least 10% - but if you do wish to pre-order we will confirm final price up front, and ask for a £50 deposit to secure.  Thx.  

This item is for a pair of the correct shape and profile, alloy plugs that were fitted into the top of the rear Plunger spindles that were fitted to all Norton Gardengate frames - from 1939 to the early 1950's, they are Norton original part number B4/673. 

These plugs are CNC manufactured from aluminium - as per originals, and the head shape, dimensions and profile have been faithfully replicated from an original pattern (see 3rd picture which shows two original plunger spindles - the spindle in the front has one of our plugs semi-fitted, while the spindle in the background has an original Norton plug still fitted).

Original plugs are often badly damaged, broken off or have just come out of the plunger spindle,  making the top of the plunger suspension area look messy.  Our plugs are CNC manufactured to a fine tolerance, and have a small shaft which is a fractional 'interference fit' to the original Norton plunger spindle centre hole, but also has an initial taper to the shaft - so they can be placed in the original spindle bore - then can be be lightly tapped into the original spindle hole with a mallet - and will greatly improve the appearance of the rear end, where they sit quite prominently. 

After machining our plugs have their plug heads lightly linished and polished - so they also look very pretty.  We pack each seperately in its own bag as a pair - so the heads do not get scratched in transit.  Price is per pair of plugs 

Original Design: It should be noted that the original Norton Gardengate plunger spindles were designed with a thread at the bottom of the spindle - so they could be pulled tight into a taper at the bottom of the plunger frame casting, with a heavyweight bolt (our Item Number 1014), while the top of the plunger spindle had an unthreaded 3/8" hole, with a cross-slot, where the hole was 'blind', i.e. it only extended about 2 inch deep.  I am not sure why they were designed this way - but it seemed likely that the alloy plugs were fitted partly for aesthsic reasons (they look nice!) and stopping water being trapped in the hole of the spindle, and partly to allow the spindles to be 'tapped' down into place when refitting to the frame, with the use of a soft headed mallet.  Unfortunately - after many years of use, many of these plugs get 'mauled', or snap off, often leaving the original plug shaft still trapped in the spindle . .. which results in that rear area looking unsightly.

Fitting Notes:

While these plugs look quite simple in design, the dimensions are quite important to ensure they can be fitted correctly and do not foul plunger frame casting in use - ours are machined to accurately follow the original dimensions.

The original Norton Gardengate spindle has an unthreaded hole at the top of the spindle - which has a bore of 3/8" (0.375").  It should be noted that the hole at the top of the spindle is not threaded.  Therefore original plugs were not threaded into the hole - but looked to have been tapped into place (which is presumably why some spindles seem to have lost their plugs over the years.  Our plugs have been carefully machined so that the initial part of the shaft is tapered, so that it will fit into the top hole of the spindle, but will quickly become tight as it is pressed down into place.  For the final part of the shaft - it has an interference fit of approximately 2 Thou on the original hole diameter - so it will be necessary to use a soft headed mallet (or some over soft headed mallet) to tap the plug fully home, but take great care when doing this to ensure that the soft alloy head is not marked or damaged by the mallet (or any hard bits on the caught in the head of the mallet.

It is of course important to make sure the hole in the top of the original spindle has any traces of the original plug are removed first (and you may want to check that if the original plugs are still fitted, that they are indeed alloy - in case they had previously been replaced by steel items by a former owner) . . . but they  are not too difficult to drill out any remains of the original plug.  It is a good idead to run a 3/8" hand reamer (or a good condition twist drill at a push) down the hole to ensure it is fully clean, before fitting new plugs.