- High quality fuel pipes (modern fuel/emission quality 1/4" pipe - fully Ethanol proof) to give that original black rubber finish of period fuel pipes.

They have all writing removed and are made up with nice quality plated 1/4" BSP unions and crimped ferrules, to give a professional, period finish.

These standard length pipes are of approximately 10" and 10.5" actual pipe length, which gives enough length for nice graceful curves and to fit all the various Norton International and Manx style tanks fitted wth Amal TT/RN or GP carbs.

These pipe sets can also be used with other Norton road models fitted wtih an Amal (or other make of carburettor) - fitted with twin 1/4" BSP banjo fittings.  And of course - the same applies to other marques of motorcycles fitted with Amal carburettors.  However, you might want to check that the lengths stated above are best suited for your bike - we also sell a slightly shorter length of pipes (Item 0122) - or you can email us on sales@racingvincent.co.uk if you want to request a custom length - and we can quote pro-rata (allow up to 3 weeks for custom lengths though.

We use high quality Ethanol proof black rubber style fuel line when making these sets up, and ensure all writing is removed from the pipes - so they give a vintage bike restoration a period finish

Update Oct 2023 Now back in stock - But like everything else, post Covid the cost of these UK manufactured fittings and ethanol proof pipe have risen considerably in the last 18 months - hence the price increase (but which is still less than the % component increase)

- High quality fuel pipes (modern fuel/emission quality 1/4" pipe- fully Ethanol proof) to give that original black rubber finish of period fuel pipes. They have all writing removed and are made up with B.S.P. unions and crimped ferrules, to give a professional finish. - These shorter length pipes are of approx 8.5" and 9" actual pipe length, which should still be enough for most petrol tanks, but can be fitted if you prefer smaller loops with little excess showing. I would suggest getting an old piece of tubing and cutting to this size as a test first if you are unsure.

These slightly shorter length pipes are of approximately 8.5" and 9.0" actual pipe length, which are slightly shorter than our Item 0121 fuel pipe sets - but some people prefer a more direct pipe - and they are also more similar to some road going models fitted with Amal 276 or Monoblock carbs.  If you are not sure what length would suit your bike best - just get a length of thick wire and gently bend it to the correct curve between your petrol tank and carb . . . and then measure that. 

These pipe sets can also be used with other Norton road models fitted wtih an Amal (or other make of carburettor) - fitted with twin 1/4" BSP banjo fittings.  And of course - the same applies to other marques of motorcycles fitted with Amal carburettors.  However, you might want to check that the lengths stated above are best suited for your bike - we also sell a slightly longer length of pipes (Item 0121) - or you can email us on sales@racingvincent.co.uk if you want to request a custom length - and we can quote pro-rata (allow up to 3 weeks for custom lengths though.

We use high quality Ethanol proof black rubber style fuel line when making these sets up, and ensure all writing is removed from the pipes - so they give a vintage bike restoration a period finish

Update Oct 2023 Now back in stock - But like everything else, post Covid the cost of these UK manufactured fittings and ethanol proof pipe have risen considerably in the last 18 months - hence the price increase (but which is still less than the % component increase)

This item is for a Set of 6 clutch rubbers, to fit all standard 3 spring type Norton Clutch's.  These fit into the centre clutch spider and provide a cushioned transmission.   

We have these rubbers manufactured for us from an excellent, oil resistent rubber of a similar density to original rubbers, and to the original form as original rubbers, they may not be the cheapest available but the quality is nice.  

These were fitted to nearly all Norton clutch's from the early/mid 1930's through to the late 1950's.  If you own an early 1930's Norton and are not sure if your clutch will be of the 'cush hub' type - a good indication is to look at your engine sprocket as earlier single cylinder models (SOHC) had a sprung engine sprocket on a ramp, rather than the cush hub clutch - but I think it was not uncommon for owners of earlier bikes to fit later clutch's at some point.  I cannot be certain, but believe the date this cush hub clutch was first fitted was approximately 1933, and then through to at least the late 1950's - but may have continued on AMC models.

Note: Most Manx Norton and racing singles were fitted with a shallower (3 plate) clutch - which included a shallower spider for the clutch rubbers.  It is still possible to use these rubbers on those clutch's - but you will need to either linish or carefully cut the rubbers by approximately 0.250" less in depth - but this is not too difficult to do.

Clutch Rubber Fitting Instructions - Hints and Tips:

I am not sure how other people fit new rubbers - but I can share how I have found it easiest to do them in the past - and it helps if you have a spare gearbox mainshaft - which I mount vertically in a vice before I start (with soft jaws in the vice of course!).

I normally place the clutch on the spline of the gearbox shaft held in a vice (and sometimes loosely screw the mainshaft nut on, to stop clutch coming off).  You should first remove the screws on the centre hub cover plate (which you may want to do with clutch in situ as sometimes these can be difficult, particularly if screwhead is chewed).

Once cover plate is removed, you should see the old rubbers - which might look badly decomposed and chewed, as per the accompanying photograph of an original clutch hub with old rubbers still in place.  I have found it is often easiest to just try and slide down the main clutch body, leaving the internal clutch spider still attached to the mainshaft (mounted verticaly in the vice).

Then once having cleaned the clutch spider and hub of any old residue rubber from previous cush rubbers, you can fit the new rubbers.

I have found it easiest to do this with a special tool, made up an old Norton clutch plate (which has the internal splines to fit the cush hub) with a steel handle bolted to it - see accompanying photo, which shows my own clutch plate tool - but a 'C-Spanner' like the ones in the same photo will also help make the job easier.  I start by placing the three large rubbers in place (as these will give a bit more 'give' than the smaller rubbers), then by turning the special tool as much as possible to one side so that the big rubbers compress as much as possible - at which point you try and slide in the 3 smaller rubbers one at a time (noting of course that they are 'sided' with a slight curve.

This can be a fiddly and difficult job .. . sometimes resulting in getting a sweat on - but can be made easier if you have a friend with you to help push the rubbers in, as it gives you another pair of hands!  I have also smeared the smaller rubbers with a light covering of high melting point grease in the past, to help get them in.

Once all are in, ensure clutch is centralised with spider and the spider is fully up against the back wall of the main clutch - then the cover can be screwed back on. 

Hope this helps!

These are the girder fork rubber 'bump stops' as fitted to many Norton models where girder forks were used - to help prevent bottoming out over heavy bumps.  Price is per pair

As can be seen from the photograph - if you have the cast 'Bump Stop' holders fitted to your girder fork blades - then these are the correct rubbers to fit those castings.  The castings can be adusted on the rear girder fork leg on either side, so that when you go over rough bumps and the main spring 'bottoms out', then the nuts on the rear lower fork spindle hit against these hard rubber stops.

These are even more useful if your original main girder fork spring is getting tired - as so many now are.  I believe these were original fitting on Norton WD 16H/Big4 models (see period photograph), but are a very popular mod on earlier girder fork models.

We have these manufactured for us to the original pattern - as can be seen from the photograph, the tired looking rubber on the right is an original that had been fitted to a working Norton, with our re-manufactured rubbers fitted into the original casting that rubber had come from.  They are to original dimensions and of very hard wearing neoprene rubber, so should last for years.

Note: a very similar rubber was also fitted to some Velocette models (but with a slight lip on those - see our Item 0218V), these can also be fitted as an alternative to those Velocette models.

As a final point, I have been asked in the past if we can provide the actual bump stop rubber castings.  If enough interest I will continue with this (it has been a back burner project with one of our casting companies).  Likewise, I was intending to reproduce the casting bolts and nuts in stainless steel - for both, if you are interested, please let us know on our normal email: sales@racingvincent.co.uk

Update November 2021:  These have been out of stock for the last six months - and sorry to say, our supplier has informed us it is unlikely we will be getting any more in the future.  We are looking at trying to find a new manufacturer - but this will be a long way off yet (possibly 8 - 12 months minimum, if we find someone).  Email us on sales@racingvincent.co.uk if you are interested and wish to reserve one for the future.  Thx.

Update June 2022:  I am talking to a specialist manufacturer, but sorry to say one of our remaining patterns has gone missing in transit!!  Argggh!.  I will keep trying.

Excellent reproduction example of the classic 'Dunlop' rubber competition saddle, used on Norton SOHC Racing Internationals/early Manx Norton and other competition motorcycles of the 1930's. 

Supplied in kit form and includes a pair of our own lasercut front mounting brackets.  

This kit is UK manufactured, is of good quality and has all the parts and instructions to allow you to fabricate this saddle yourself with little difficulty.  It is of the same construction of the type I had previously fitted to my Big Plunger 1938 Manx and the kit in this form has been unavailable until recently for a number of years.

With each saddle kit we also supply a pair of our lasercut front frame mounting brackets to help give an alternative mounting bracket to that supplied with the manufacturers kit.

Width is approximately 14" across widest point.  Larger than our other competition saddle cover (item 0618) - which is overall of a slightly smaller size, as originally these rubber saddles were offered in two different sizes.  This kit is for the larger size.

(note - in the photograph of the underside of this saddle, with the parts loosely assembled - I have inadvertently placed the rear frame member upside down - it should be assembled with the saddle spring mounts curving downwards when the saddle is placed the right way up)

Modern replica rubber saddle cover - similar to the Dunlop competition saddle - small size.  

This is a modern replica of the Dunlop rubber saddle fitted to many Norton Competition and International SOHC models both pre and post war.  This is not a full seat - just the cover . . . which is a possible replacement for your original, if yours is perished and split.  Sorry you will have to find your own rivets - but any large pan head rivets of aluminium or copper with a rivet length of at least 0.5" should be approximately correct . . . check your own saddle frame for details.

Please note, This saddle is of the 'small' competition type - as often used on Trials bikes or some competition bikes (there was also a larger type fitted to some models on certain years see our Item 0679)  - the dimensions of this saddle cover is - 310mm at its widest point and 295mm from nose to the centre of the rear lip.

You will see in the last photograph I have placed one of these replica saddle covers on top of my 1938 Norton Racing international which is fitted with an original Dunlop rubber saddle of the same small size - as you can see they look very similar in size and shape .

Update 2022:  Many customers have enquired about the larger 'Dunlop Competition' saddle kits (our item 0679), which came with the complete kit of fabricated parts required to make a full saddle (and was larger than this version).  Unfortunately that kit is no longer available from the original manufacturer (although I am looking at options) - but the photograph of the fabricated parts of the frame in that listing might give you a good idea how to make your own 'kit' of parts for this cover - most of those being possible to fabricate in the home workshop.  And further update March 2023: Sorry, but like so many things - the price of these have risen again.  I am still pursuing our own 0679 manufacturer, but is a long struggle with nothing in sight yet!

FYI - I have asked the supplier of these smaller rubbers covers if they can also supply the complete kit - sorry but they cannot.

This is a 1 metre long x 7/8" wide length of the rubber material used to make the straps that go through the Chinpad Straps (Item 0127). There is easily enough material here to make one pair of straps, with a small amount left over.

I spent some considerable time looking for the correct material before eventually I found this material from a specialist supplier, which I buy in large sheets then cut to the correct width. To make the individual straps, cut 2 suitable lengths, then feed each end through the eyes of the chinpad tabs and then double back enough material to allow each end to be glued together using a suitable contact adhesive - I use Evo Stick 501.

I allowed for an approximate 4" area of rubber on each end to be glued together, to ensure when attached to the tank they would not pull loose. The finished straps look just right with the chinpads clips and the sponge chinpad - see the photo of my own pre-war Manx that uses these straps. Price is for 1 x 1metre long length of strap material

This is a black Sorbo (hard foam\rubber like material) petrol tank chinpad, of the type seen fitted to Norton race bikes (and other makes) in many period photographs, and is ideal for fitting to Norton Racing International and Manx petrol tanks which are fitted with chinpad fittings. 

We spent a long time hunting down a supplier of the correct 'look and feel' material, which is a dense black like rubber sorbo material of approximately 30mm (just over one inch) depth. The pads are cut to a suitable length and width for Norton chinpad petrol tanks, and as a final touch after cutting - the chinpads are linished on their side to clean up the cut faces and radius each corner, to give a much better look when fitted to a tank.

These pads are (approximately): 7 1/8" long x 4 1/4" wide.

I use the same black foam chinpad and straps on my own Big Plunger Manx Norton (shown in the photo) and other Manx tanked bikes.

Note we also sell the chinpad tabs and straps in this same section. To make the individual straps, cut 2 suitable lengths, then feed each end through the eyes of the chinpad tabs and then double back enough material to allow each end to be glued together using a suitable contact adhesive - I use Evo Stick 501. I allowed for an approximate 4" area of rubber on each end to be glued together, to ensure when attached to the tank they would not pull loose. The finished straps look just right with the chinpads clips and the sponge chinpad - see the photo of my own pre-war Manx that uses these straps.

Lipped bottom tank rubber used between frame bracket and petrol tank (Sometimes this rubber has a packing Washer above it) - Four required per petrol tank. As used on most Norton single SOHC, OHV and Sidevalve petrol tanks (Pre-Featherbed). 

Price is per each. 

These 'lipped' type rubbers have a smaller diameter portion in the centre, that fits in the petrol tank casting element of Norton frames, with the wider portion sitting above - between the petrol tank and frame casting.  Then a corresponding plain 'doughnut' (Item 0129) rubber fits into a steel cup (Item 0123) under the frame casting, with a petrol tank bolt (Item 0124) fitting through all - up into the petrol tank. When the bolts are tightened, the rubbers squeeze and stop the tank from vibrating and helps stop splitting.

These rubbers are manufactured specially for RacingNorton and are made from high quality fuel/oil resistent firm rubber, which will not easily break up or soften (which is how most original and pattern ones go eventually).

Note: although Dominator models are not our speciality - we believe these same rubbers were also used on non-Featherbed framed twin Norton's - i.e. Plunger Dominator's.

We also sell a wide packing washer - Item 0126, which is often shown in Norton Spare Parts Catalogs as sitting above the lipped washer - i.e. between the petrol tank and lipped washer - its purpose being to help ensure the rubber does not get mushed out against the petrol tank bolt mount (this is part 23 in the accompanyning exploded picture, taken from the 1948 Spare Parts List).  However, in the past I have found that some petrol tanks have mounts wide enough not to require this washer fitting - and actually it can make the petrol tank bolt (our Item 0124 - which is copied from an origianl Norton item) difficult to fit.  If not sure - I can only recommend buying a set of the packing washers anyway - and see if you can fit them in - for some tanks it helps.  What is important is that the bolt is tightened up so that its shoulder fully locks against the bottom of the petrol tank - it is this that stops the bolt unwinding from vibration in use - a very common problem with this design of Norton petrol tanks 

These are the flat bottom tank rubbers that were fitted between the lower dished washer and the frame tank bracket,  on most single cylinder (i.e Pre Featherbed - Rigid Frames, Plunger Frame and Swinging Arm) non-Featherbed frame models - of all Model types.  They are of the type used with our Petrol tank bottom bolts - Item 0124.

Normally four of these rubbers are required per petrol tank, along with four dished washer cups (our Item 0123), and in the accompanying pictures is an exploded diagram taken from the 1948 Norton Spare Parts Catalog that shows the parts that are required - and they are a nice snug fit in the dished washers.  These washers (with cups fitted) fit under the frame petrol tank lugs and are held in place by the lipped bolt (Item 0124).

They were also used on some oil tank lower mount brackets - if using a similar bolt to Item 0124.

Note we also sell an almost identical rubber to these - Item 0130.  The only difference between the two rubbers is that these rubbers have an internal bore most suited to a 3/8" type bolt going through them.  The similar oil tank rubbers (Item 0130) have a slightly smaller hole ID - more suited to 5/16" bolts - as were more commonly fitted to oil tanks and some bolthru Manx tanks.

However - although we manufacture both types, if either are out of stock . . . the other type can still be used as a suitable substitute - and both are a snug fit in our petrol/oil tank dished washers - Item 0123.  

These are manufactured for us by a speclialist rubber manufacturer from  a firm oil resistent nitrile rubber and are modelled on the original Norton rubber.   They are high quality (and one of our most popular items).

Normally four of these rubbers are required per petrol tank, along with four dished washer cups (our Item 0123), and in the accompanying pictures is an exploded diagram taken from the 1948 Norton Spare Parts Catalog that shows the parts that are required - and they are a nice snug fit in the dished washers.  These washers (with cups fitted) fit under the frame petrol tank lugs and are held in place by the lipped bolt (Item 0124).