Set of 13 rollers to fit all Norton gearbox pre-Amc mainshaft sleevegears (+1 spare in case you lose one!) = 14 rollers in total.

These good quality UK manufactured rollers are a replacement for worn or tired/pitted rollers in your Norton gearbox sleevegear (the big gear at the end of the mainshaft that also holds the engine sprocket.  Fits early Norton upright gearboxs, all the way through to the introduction of the AMC type gearbox (where the sleevegear did not normally have rollers fitted).

Note: we have previously been asked by customers if we can provide the hardened ring that is fitted into the sleevegear to retain the rollers (which is normally peened in place, but if a gearbox is stripped, can often come out and get lost).  As at Feb 2021 we do not offer this - but are considering having a batch manufactured.  Email on sales@racingvincent.co.uk if interested.

This listing is for the complete top gearbox locating and adjustment assembly used on Norton models fitted with 'Upright' gearboxs.  It is a combination of Items 0566, 0567 and 0568, all manufactured in stainless steel.

See individual item listings for more detail and background to each individual item  - but this listing is for all 3 items bought as a set together, and is fractionally cheaper than buying individually

This is the gearbox top bolt adjuster assembly that was fitted to all 'upright' Norton gearbox models (i.e. rigid and plunger framed), that screwed through the top gearbox bolt (Item 0566) and allowed the gearbox to be moved backwards and forwards to adjust the primary chain. 

We manufacture all the parts for this assembly in stainless steel (see more information below) and the assembly includes adjuster bolt, stainless steel lasercut securing plate and stainless 1/4" securing bolts and washers.

The second photograph shows how this assembly mounts into the top gearbox casting of both Rigid and Plunger Norton models, that used the Norton 'upright' gearbox.  The thread of the bolt screwed through the large top gearbox bolt (Item 0566) and the plate is held against the back of the frame gearbox mount by the two 1/4" BSC bolts (supplied with the assembly).

Because the gearbox top mount casting lugs are often tight against the casting (of previous owners have not fully loosened the top and bottom gearbox nuts before trying to adjust the primary  chain tension!), it is not unusual to find that the original Norton bolt fitted in these models has a badly worn thread, or the hex of the bolt is badly chewed. I have also seen the this bolt so badly worn, the bolt is actually twisted along its threaded length. This makes adjusting the primary chain much more difficult - and sometimes not possible at all, if the thread has fully stripped.  Replacing with this re-manufactured item will resolve those issues - particularly if also replacing the bolt at the same time.

Manufacturing Background:

As you will see, this item is not cheap - but by looking at the accompanyning photographs - you will see the different steps we have to go through to manufacture it, and provide background of how it is made - it is a very labour intensive part to make . . . which is probably why you never seem to find good ones at autojumbles! - I assume Norton's themselves had to go through a similar process themselves to manufacture them originally.

- First of all we lasercut theframe retaining plate from heavyweight stainless steel plate (to original pattern). On the corresponding  Norton top gearbox mount there is a counter bore that allows the spindle lip to feed in, but that is then held captive by this plate, once bolted in place

- We then CNC manufacture the threaded bolt assembly as two seperate items.  The threaded stud is turned down from bigger diameter bar than the finished thread diameter, because there has to be the lip that feeds into the frame lug.  We then machine long threaded hex 'nut's (chamfered on the innermost side and countersun on the outer face) which can be screwed onto the stud.  The assembly has to be made in this way to allow the plate to be held captive

- Once a plate is fed onto the stud, up against the lip, we then feed brazing flux along the length of the shorter thread and screw on very tight the short length of hex - ready for the hex part to be brazed to the stud.  Before carrying out the brazing - we centre punch the end of the threaded shaft, as an additional safeguard against the hex moving on the shaft.

- Then we braze the hex head to the shaft as shown in the 5th photograph.  It is very important to get heat to the inward part of the hex area (i.e. closest to the lip of the thread assembly), so that the braze that is being fed in from the end of the head travels th full distance of the thread.  By doing this, there should be no chance of the hex head coming adrift (and the main reason why this assembly is difficult to replicate). We then fill the head with braze to finish off (this is cosmetic only though).

- The brazed assembly then goes back onto the CNC machine for final profiling of the rear head (to Norton's normal curved profile).  You will see if purchasing one of these bolts that being of stainless steel - the end of the hex head is a slightly different colour, where the gold coloured braze has been shaped into the stainless hex.  This process makes the finished assembly very strong -as often a fair amount of pressure is required to move a tight gearbox.

- final task is to clean and deburr any flux or braze from the final assembly.  Please Note - for anyone that regularly brazes stainless steel will know - the heat and brazing flux will cause the stainless steel to darken.  We very carefully linish/deburr the hex head and shaft assembly of the bolt after brazing . . . but we do not try and polish it to a bright polished finish . . . it is far more important to ensure the hex is not 'rounded' by overpolishing, on this non cosmetic item, to . 

However, we do make every effort to ensure the finish is good and fit for purpose.  And being stainless steel, the assembly is far less likely to rust than the original dull nickel plated Norton steel item.  Not cheap - due to the many steps required for manufacture

Adjusting The Primary Chain on Norton Models Fitted With Upright Gearboxs and Using This Type of Adjuster Assembly:

Models fitted with this type of primary chain adjustment have sometimes got bad press over the years - and have a reputation for either breaking gearbox top lug castings, breaking the frame mounting lug, or wearing out the thread on this adjuster assembly.  Although sometimes a bit fiddly to adjust - there are just a few simple rules which will help:

- If freshly restoring a motorcycle with this type of frame gearbox mount - make sure you remove paint/plastic coating around the frame lug before final fitment of the gearbox - with the gearbox loosely fitted in the frame and bottom long bolt fitted (but not tightened), it should be possible to slide the gearbox smoothly backwards and forwards without noticeable tight spots.  Neither should the gearbox wobble from side to side at the top or have perceptable play between the two top gearbox lugs.  Having play is one of the main reasons for one of the top lugs snapping off - a common fault with this gearbox . . . and why so many gearbox shells with broken lugs are seen at autojumbles.  If there is perceptable play, gently file the frame lug on either side to remove paint and make sure each side is parallel and vertical, then assemble gearbox into frame with shims on the side that is loose.

- When bike is operational, if needing to tighten/loosen primary chain, always remember to loosen the gearbox lower mount bolt, before trying to rotated this adjuster bolt - sounds simple, but easy to forget!  It is this that often results in excess wear on this adjuster thread. If a road model, you will find it easier if you loosen the primary inner chaincase nut first which will allow access to the lower gearbox bolt with a good quality open ended spanner on the clutch side, while using a ring spanner or socket on the timing side.

- I also find it helps, once having loosened both top and bottom gearbox mount bolts, to then just 'finger tight' both, so that when adjusting the chain, the gearbox does not have excess 'side to side' play, which can give an erroneous view of the chain tightness.  And of course, when adjusitng the primary chain, you should have first loosened the rear wheel spindle nuts and rear wheel frame adjustment bolts, so that the rear wheel is not stopping the gearbox adjusment. 

- Having tightened everything back up (I do the big gearbox top nut first and lower nut second) . . . dont be 100% suprised if the primary chain seems to have moved position again! that is just sod's law, and each bike seems to do that by a differnt amount, you soon learn to account for how much change there is in the final quarter turn of tightening the nuts!

- Finally once all tightened, it is always worth a final check on top nut to see if it can be tightened any more.  I have found (particularly when racing) this is one of the most common faults of this frame design - under fierce acceleration the gearbox can still move and not unusual to find one or other of the chains has gone tight again . . . another reason why both the main top gearbox bolt and the adjustment assembly listed here have a hard life and wear out threads faster than other fastenings on this bike.  

This is the top gearbox nut that is fitted onto the Upright Adjuster Bolt (Item 0566), that is loosened and tightened to adjust primary chain tension on all upright gearbox models.  These are CNC manufactured in stainless steel.  Price is each.

This version is copied from an original pre-Featherbed Manx Norton type nut - being slightly lighter than the original roadgoing type (which was just solid Hex with a thread through it), but there is no reason why this version cannot be used on all roadgoing models as well - it works just as well and looks prettier! can be used on all models fitted with upright gearboxs using this mnount type.  Manufactured in stainless steel.

As a final point - the hex on this is a lovely correct fit for the Whit spanner, so if your existing nut is chewed (as so often they are), this will allow much better purchase and less slop in the restricted area that this is fitted - normally a real pain to adjust!

This is the distinctive top should bolt that provides the top gearbox mounting for all 'upright' style Norton gearboxs (i.e. anything prior to swinging arm or Featherbed frame). Price is Each.

Our version of this bolt is CNC manufactured from high tensile stainless steel and is identical to the original item other than the material. We can also offer the adjuster bolt assembly that feeds through the centre of this bolt, and the 'Manx type' version of the distinctive nut for this bolt - as well as offering all 3 items as a complete assembly, see also items 0567,0568,0569.

It should be noted that prior to 1934, Norton used Sturmey Archer gearbox's, which looked similar to the Norton gearbox which was adopted in 1934, but earlier gearboxs used a slightly smaller bolt.  If you have a pre-1934 gearbox, email us to confirm dimensions as I am not sure exactly when in 1932-34 the bolt size shown here was adopted on all models

Note: I know some customers have expressed concern over the years that stainless steel can sometimes 'grab' on threads, particularly where a lot of pressure is required on threads, like these bolts.   I can tell you that in my own personal experience over the last 20 years of using stainless steel fastenings - this is not the case, and these bolts are a case in point - you should find the threads just as smooth and strong as good quality steel bolts.  I tend to use molybdenum grease (black in colour) or copper grease in preference, but any good grease lubricant should work well.  It is also worth pointing out - original Norton versions of this bolt are often found with worn threads . . . which obviously can lead to the gearbox moving under drive (and is one of the contributing factors to cracking the top gearbox lug or frame lug eventually).

This is the special extra wide washer that fits behind the gearbox top primary chain adustment nut on upright gearbox's.  We have these lasercut and then dull nickel plated washer with the very wide face, this washer fits behind the large nut on top gearbox bolt nut an is important iin helping to spread the load on upright gearbox top lugs (which often snaps if frame lug worn). 

The original part number for this washer was E5454, and they are often missing or omitted on restored bikes.

Price is Each.

This is a very important washer on Norton frames using an upright gearbox - as they were renowned for the gearbox Top bolt casting or the frame lug wearing, particularly if not tightened enough - and eventually one of the two top gearbox casting lugs breaks off.  As can be seen, this washer is wide and thick (approx 1.9mm) - so spreads the tightening load well.

Fitting this heavy duty extra wide washer (with original dull nickel finish) helps spread the load over the gearbox lug when tightening the main top gearbox chain adjuster nut - helping to keep pressure on the lug even, and of course stopping the nut digging into the alloy of the gearbox casting.

This is a faithful reproduction of the Clutch Worm Lever Arm and the special 'reduced head' bolt that is fitted to all Norton upright gearbox's from early 1930's to 1950. It slides over the the eccentric worm spindle and can be adjusted then locked to maintain the correct tension of the clutch lever cable. Both the arm and the special reduced head bolt are faithful copies of the original Norton items, and if I say so myself look really nice quality.

The casting is a 'Lost Wax' casting, the patterns been copied from an original arm - lost wax giving a finer finish than a sand casting (but more expensive to reproduce). The reduced head bolt is also identical, and matched to the arm, including the shouldered face that matchs the coutersink in the arm. The only variation from original is that they are both manufactured in stainless steel, with the arm having a satin finish similar to an original. They are the finishing touch to a pre-war Norton gearbox restoration (and look great when also fitted with our stainless end nuts) - particularly as originals are now getting extremely hard to find.

The second photograph shows an original arm fitted to a Manx gearbox, so you can see that ours are identical! (note the same arm is also employed on the SOHC exhaust lifter, although Norton gave them a different reference number!).

These items are now getting very hard to find at autojumbles - and normally the hex on the bolt is chewed, as people use the wrong spanner.

Sorry they are not cheap, but the price reflects the cost of lost wax castings and CNC machining

This is the distinctive square head, shouldered clutch spring screw as fitted to orginal Manx Norton and M30 competition 3 plate clutch's. These are identical in dimensions to the original screws, but CNC manufactured in Stainless Steel. 

Price is Each, 3 required per clutch.

An original Manx Norton square headed screw was used as the pattern to these (and actually double checked with a second set that had the same dimensions to ensure these were correct).  As you can see from the accompanying photographs these screws have a distinctive shoulder that means when fitted to the racing clutch (which is shallower than the standard roadgoing clutch and only has 3 friction plates fitted), ensures the screws can be fully locked down against that shoulder (unlike the road going clutch screws which are set to the depth you want to screw them into).

These screws, just like the original screws, require a special square headed spanner to screw them in - but we can also supply a good quality screwdriver type tool (Item 0882), which is perfect for this task and fits the square head just right.  One of the accompanyning photographs shows an original Norton square head clutch bolt with ours alongside for comparison, along with the blank stainless bar stock they are machined from.

Manufacturing notes - Broaching:  As with many of our parts and fasterners - we CNC machine these screws in hard wearing and non rusting stainless steel. However, to achieve the distinctive square head of the original pattern requires specialist (and expensive) rotary broaching equipment and multiple CNC operations to achieve.  But unlike the original Norton bolts I have seen (which were made from a much softer steel, then nickel plated - and often have their square heads 'rounded'), these screws are made from stainless steel - which unfortunately is a difficult material to broach, due to its hardness.  We actually have to - pre-broach them with a fractionally smaller square in a hydraulic press, then they go to a vertical pillar drill to be final broached - before then going back onto the CNC machine - for final head machining (because when broaching, a broach square requires a countersink for centralising, which is then removed), and at the same time the broacking 'scurf' is removed from the centre of the hole.  Therefore, for such a simple (and relatively shallow square) on the final screw, there is actually multiple operations 

Therefore we appreciate this is not the cheapest of screws - but it reflects the setup cost and manufacturing time to make these in small batchs (I only make them because there is a demand and they were originally fitted on Manx Nortons - frankly, I do not enjoy making them at all!).

Finally, we also sell the correct original Manx Norton type square section clutch springs (Item 0387) and billet manufactured Manx type short spring cups (Item 0610) to match these bolts.  

This useful square head 'screwdriver' from a good quality tool manufacturer is a very handy tool for screwing in and out the Square Head Manx Type clutch bolt we manufacturer (Item 0881).  

I personally like this type of 'screwdriver' tool for screwing in the distinctive square head Manx type clutch bolts, but if you like a T-Bar tool, this particular screwdriver also has a female square head at the back of the screwdriver to accept a tommy bar extension.  It also has the benefit of being designed for small square head sockets, so has a small sprung loaded ball on one of the square flats - this is handy for holding the bolt captive when placing it up to the clutch.

Price is Each

This is the lipped clutch bolt design fitted to most standard Norton clutch's from 1930's through to the introduction of the AMC clutch in the late a1950's.  This item is CNC manufactured from stainless steel with shoulder to centralise clutch spring.  Price is each.

Price is Each, 3 required per clutch.

There were a few variations on this bolt made over the years - but many clutch's over the years seemed to have lost the original lipped bolt, instead being fitted with a normal small bolt and loose washer . . . making fitting very fiddly and annoying.  

These bolts are based on original A2/403 lipped clutch bolts shown in the 1948 Spare Parts Catalog, which were fitted to all models other than the Manx Norton which used the square head racing bolts (which we also make - Item 0881).  Being a lipped bolt, they are manufactured from stainless round bar, with the hex head being milled to the correct imperial spanner size as original.

Although made originally for standard models, that said, some people also prefer this type of bolt on an open competition clutch, particularly pre-war bikes, as some think this head is prettier and allows a normal hex spanner to be used (we also sell a drilled/wasted version of this bolt for that real competition look - see Item 0883).

These bolts are same length as original bolts, have a slight lip to centralise clutch spring and as they are CNC'd in stainless steel, will not rust - and finally, look very pretty!