Twin row caged ball bearing. Fitted to Model 30M/40M (Manx) SOHC engines in original C3 looser fit, from high quality SKF manufacturer.  

This is the twin row bearing fitted to the timing side of SOHC magnesium crankcase M30/M40 (i.e. pre-Featherbed) Manx models.  It is different to the aluminium crankcase International models timing side bearing (which is only a single row bearing) - making the M30/Manx models stronger in this important area (which may explain why pre-featherbed M30/Manx magnesium crankcases are often found with the drive side crankcase damaged but timing side ok).

Original bearings had steel/bronze cages, but have not been available in that form for many years.  Modern versions of this bearing are now supplied with a nylon cage.  This is the correct looser fit 'C3' bearing as fitted to original models - but bear in mind the cage is nylon when soldering the whitworth screws over the bearing retaining plate - particularly if using a blowtorch, do not get the heat too close to the cage!

SKF is a high quality manufacturer of the same qualithy as RHP manufacturer, and now very difficult to find.

Update April 2020: For the last 5 years this bearing has been getting progressively more difficult to source, and back in 2019 we ran out of them completely.  I have marked this listing as new again - to highlight to customers that we have managed to source a small quantity of this bearing from high quality SKF manufacturer in the correct 'C3' looser fit size (as originally fitted).  although not cheap - if you have a magnesium crankcase M30/Manx, these are the correct bearing and not sure if they will be available again when these have gone

3 screw mainshaft bearing securing plate, to fit all Model 30 and Model 40 International (and CS1/CJ) engines. This pressed steel plate was used to retain the main bearings and ensure they did not 'walk' under heavy use.

Price is Each

The plate was secured by 3 screws (sold seperately), which were soldered to the plate after tightening, to ensure they do not come lose. This plate is copied from an original item.

Note: this plate fits all International crankcases after approximately 1932. before that time a shallower plate was used. If you are not sure - measure the lip of the main bearing housing ( see second photo), if it sits approx. 0.225" above the crankcase wall it is for this plate. If it measures approximately 0.175" above crankcase - then the very early securing plate is required (see Item no 0287). The late type crankcase is on the left in the 3rd photo

Hints for Securing The Screws On These Plates:

Original SOHC engines used slotted, unplated screws (which we supply - Item 0023 and 0024), so they could be soldered in place to stop them unscrewing when the engine was running.  It is important to ensure you use unplated screws, as the solder will not adhere to plated screws.   Once bearings are fitted, the plates can then be held in place and the screws tightened up with a flat bladed screwdriver.  Then, originally, these screws were soldered over - ensuring the solder flows easily  over the head and surrounding plate (without too much spillage).  To do this requires that both the corners of the plate and the heads of the screws are absolutely clean and free from oil.  I also tend to use a rotary  wire brush on both to remove any surface corrosion, just before soldering.  Originally I believe plumbers solder would have been used (not electrical solder), but a good quality solder and flux is required to get a good finish.  It is then a case of simplly getting enough heat onto the area surrounding the screw hole of the bearing retainer plate and the head of the screw, until the solder flows freely of its own accord - which can sometimes be quite difficult. 

I will not advise anyone how to do this - that is for each owner to decide for themselves, but many soldering irons cannot convey enough heat to get the solder flowing, so a number of people use small gas blowlamps, with well localised flames - but great care should be taken if doing it this method to avoid rags or anything close igniting.

A picture is also attached of an original engine with International type bearing retainer plate fitted, and screws soldered over

4 screw mainshaft bearing securing plate, to fit all Model 30M and Model 40M  (i.e. pre-Featherbed Manx type) magnesium engines. This pressed steel plate was used to retain the main bearings and ensure they did not 'walk' under heavy use. The plate was secured by 4 screws (sold seperately - see item 0024), which were soldered to the plate after tightening, to ensure they do not come lose. This plate is copied from an original item.

Price is Each

Note, if you are not sure what type of SOHC engine yours is - normally the only engine to use the four hole type main bearing covers were the competition magnesium crankcase engine bikes - originally referred to as 30M or 40m, or Manx Grand Prix Specification or later just Manx Norton.   These should fit all pre-Featherbed type magnesium crankcases (and might also fit some Featherbed type - email for dimensions if you need to check).  There was also a very early aluminium type racing engine crankcase (approx 1932-35, but without any web on the drive side in the shape of the Oilbath) - I believe they normally used the 3 screw fixing plate - but if are fortunate enough to own one of those engines and are unsure, email us for more information (sales@racingvincent.co.uk).

Hints for Securing The Screws On These Plates:

Original SOHC engines used slotted, unplated screws (which we supply - Item 0023 and 0024), so they could be soldered in place to stop them unscrewing when the engine was running.  It is important to ensure you use unplated screws, as the solder will not adhere to plated screws.   Once bearings are fitted, the plates can then be held in place and the screws tightened up with a flat bladed screwdriver.  Then, originally, these screws were soldered over - ensuring the solder flows easily  over the head and surrounding plate (without too much spillage).  To do this requires that both the corners of the plate and the heads of the screws are absolutely clean and free from oil.  I also tend to use a rotary  wire brush on both to remove any surface corrosion, just before soldering.  Originally I believe plumbers solder would have been used (not electrical solder), but a good quality solder and flux is required to get a good finish.  It is then a case of simplly getting enough heat onto the area surrounding the screw hole of the bearing retainer plate and the head of the screw, until the solder flows freely of its own accord - which can sometimes be quite difficult. 

I will not advise anyone how to do this - that is for each owner to decide for themselves, but many soldering irons cannot convey enough heat to get the solder flowing, so a number of people use small gas blowlamps, with well localised flames - but great care should be taken if doing it this method to avoid rags or anything close igniting.

A picture is also attached of an original engine with International type bearing retainer plate fitted, and screws soldered over

This is the shallower type of Model 30/40 main bearing plate that was fitted to very early Cammy engines - we believe prior to 1933 (although it is difficult to be exactly sure when the lip was made larger - so please ensure you check your engine . . . there may be a year or so each way before the new lip type was introduced).

Price is each

If you have an early engine and are not sure which type you need, then measure how far the bearing lip stands proud of the inner crankcase wall (as In photo 2) - if it sits approx. 0.225" above the crankcase wall then you need the later type (Item no 0285). If it measures approximately 0.175" above crankcase then you have the early type crankcase and you need this bearing cover. The early type crankcase is on the right on the 3rd photograph.

We also sell the later post 1932 Inter bearing cover . . . and although they look very similar, you can see that this earlier cover is noticeably shallower.  And of course - being early, and only fitted for a short period . . . they are extremely difficult to find, and orginals are often damaged and dont solder well.  We had this cover specially made for us, based on an original plate.

This is the countersunk screw used to retain securing plates for both main bearings in the crankcases and front camshaft bearings.

This listing is for a bag of 3 screws (we also sell a larger bag of 9 screws - Item 0024)

These screws are the correct coarse thread, length and most importantly - are unplated, which is very important - as the original design of these bearing plates was for the screws to be soldered to the bearing plate - to ensure they did not come loose and drop into the crankcase in use - causing severe damage.

The normal SOHC roadgoing models used a 3 plate bearing cover, as did the first camshaft bearing cover, while 30M/40M (pre Featherbed Manx) models used a 4 screw bearing plate.

It is extremely important that both the screws and the bearing plate are burnished clean before attempting to solder, and I have always found it easiest to use a good quality flux, and a small blowtorch - as a suprising amount of heat is required before solder will melt over the head of the screw.  Ideally - the solder should 'puddle' over the head of the screw and surrounding plate countersink - to ensure a good join.  You need to be very careful if using this method with some modern bearings - which have now switched from a bronze to nylon ball cage - the heat must be kept away from the bearing cage.

Final point - in practice it is extremely difficult to avoid some level of 'mess' when doing this job - and normally trying to cover the bearings with a cloth or tape is not practical because of the heat.  In preference - if fitting new bearings, I do not place any oil into the bearings after fitting - until after I have finished soldering the bearing plate.  After soldering, I very carefully capture and remove any traces of spattered solder or flux from the area . . . and if any solder has landed on the bearings I very carefully remove that, before final oiling of bearings.

This is the countersunk screw used to retain securing plates for both main bearings in the crankcases and front camshaft bearings.

This listing is for a bag of 9 screws (we also sell a smaller bag of 3 screws - Item 0023)

These screws are the correct coarse thread, length and most importantly - are unplated, which is very important - as the original design of these bearing plates was for the screws to be soldered to the bearing plate - to ensure they did not come loose and drop into the crankcase in use - causing severe damage.

The normal SOHC roadgoing models used a 3 plate bearing cover, as did the first camshaft bearing cover, while 30M/40M (pre Featherbed Manx) models used a 4 screw bearing plate.

It is extremely important that both the screws and the bearing plate are burnished clean before attempting to solder, and I have always found it easiest to use a good quality flux, and a small blowtorch - as a suprising amount of heat is required before solder will melt over the head of the screw.  Ideally - the solder should 'puddle' over the head of the screw and surrounding plate countersink - to ensure a good join.  You need to be very careful if using this method with some modern bearings - which have now switched from a bronze to nylon ball cage - the heat must be kept away from the bearing cage.

Final point - in practice it is extremely difficult to avoid some level of 'mess' when doing this job - and normally trying to cover the bearings with a cloth or tape is not practical because of the heat.  In preference - if fitting new bearings, I do not place any oil into the bearings after fitting - until after I have finished soldering the bearing plate.  After soldering, I very carefully capture and remove any traces of spattered solder or flux from the area . . . and if any solder has landed on the bearings I very carefully remove that, before final oiling of bearings.

- World famous Carillo 'H Beam' conrods, manufactured to Longstroke Manx specification (100mm stroke, to take standard Manx Big End race and 0.875" inner diameter Little End), supplied with Little End fitted.

Feb 2021 Update: Since our last batch of these, the US/Pound dollar rate has risen considerably - making purchase of another batch unlikely in the near future.  However, if you are looking for a Norton SOHC connecting rod (either International or M30/Longstroke Manx type) then email us at sales@racingvincent.co.uk.

If I receive enough interest I will consider another batch from Carillo or alternatively from Arrow Industries in the UK, who I have also spoken to.  A 50% deposit and 3 month turnaround would be expected on these.  I have based  price shown here is a guide price, based on that calculated from a quote for a batch as at mid 2020.

This is a listing for the Little End Bush to fit Norton Single Cylinder models - with 4 variation types.  They are available to fit most SOHC models (road going and competition type), OHV and SV models.  We also manufacture a type to allow the fitment of BSA type pistons, with 0.750" Gudgeon Pin diameter. 

We manufacture these Little End bushes in a high quality Leaded Bronze - PB2 (which has a higher Tin content than others to give very hard wearing properties), and is widely regarded as the best material for Little End manufacture (and of course more expensive than many other bronze types).

We manufacture these Little End bushes to the 'Standard' Norton outer diameter tolerance that would have been used when they were first manufactured - therefore when fitting these bushes to your Con Rod, it is important to confirm the condition of your con rod Little End Eye, and to confirm the condition and diameter of the old Little End bearing your are removing - to ensure it has not gone oval from excessive use or age . . . and to confirm that the the Outer Diameter of our Little End Bush (which are CNC machined to a very close tolerance of the original Norton 'STD' tolerance interference fit), are at least the same diameter as the bush being removed - in case your own Con Rod has already had an oversize Little End fitted in the past. 

Sorry, but we cannot accept Returns on these items once any attempt to fit them has been made (as they will always mark in the process of fitting) - so please ensure you have confirmed dimensions before attempting to fit.

All four types of Little End bushes have a shallow 'coarse scroll' innner oil way running across their width - as per original Norton Little Ends, to aid oiling.

All 4 types of Little Ends have been manufactured to very accurate tolerances - and examples have been 'Test fitted' into original Norton conrods.  The internal bore tolerance of the bushes has been set so that once pressed into a 'Standard' Norton fit con-rod, and any burr's from pressing removed. that a standard Norton Gudgeon Pin will just slide into the bush.  However - as with all Norton parts - con rod tolerances can vary - so you must check the bush after fitting, to ensure the gudgeon pin will turn smoothly in the bore of the new bush.  (As with fitting any plain Little End bush) - if there is any tightness of the Gudgeon pin, it may require gentle hand scraping or light reaming (with lots of light cutting oil), to ensure the pin will spin freely 

Four Types of Little End are currently available, with the following details:

1077_1: Standard SOHC (International), OHV or SV Type - Already pre-drilled with Standard Norton 'Diamond' Type Oil Holes:

This is the 'standard' roadgoing type Little end, to accept Norton 0.875" Gudgeon Pin piston, with 1.150" width con rod Little End eye width (this can vary by @+/- 10 thou by conrod - as this type of Little End was used on most roadgoing Norton single cylinder models over a 30 year period - from early 1930s to late 1950's).  These little ends have the 'regular' Norton 'Diamond' pattern 4 oiling holes pre-drilled, for those customers who would prefer not to drill the holes themselves after pressing the new Little End into the conrod.  However, this means a little more care must be taken when fitting the new Little End bush, to ensure the oil holes in the bush are in-line with those in the conrod - this can be easily achieved by using a permanent felt pen to draw lines over the top of the conrod.  The holes in our bush have been copied exactly from an original Norton bush - and pressed into an original Norton con rod - to ensure they line up.  However, as per the width, there were fractional variations on con rods over the years - so the holes can vary fractionally.  It is not critical if a hole does not line up exactly - providing each of the 4 holes are close and still allow oil to flow through

- Gudgeon Pin Diameter:  0.875"

- Width: 1.150"

- Oil Holes: 4 Hole Diamond Pattern Pre-Drilled

Weight of Little End: 38 gram (as per original)                 

1077_2: Standard SOHC (International), OHV or SV Type - Without Standard Norton 'Diamond' Type Oil Holes:

This is the 'standard' roadgoing type Little end, to accept Norton 0.875" Gudgeon Pin piston, with 1.150" width con rod Little End eye, as per the 1077_1 version - however, this Little End bush does not come with the 'Diamond' type oil holes pre-drilled, instead, this type is intended to be pressed in - then the customer can drill the 4 oil holes to exactly match the con rod of their bike.

This was historically the more 'normal'  way of ensuring the 4 oil holes match your con-rod exactly - because you would wait until you had pressed the new bush into position - then use the existing con rod oil holes as a 'guide' for drilling the holes in the bush.  This is great if you are confident in drilling the holes yourself *(and then gently hand scraping the resulting burrs from the bore of the bush), but if you already have the con rod fitted into a crank or engine - you may be worried about the resulting 'swarf' going into the engine - in which case 1077_1 may be easier.  Both types are the same in other respects

- Gudgeon Pin Diameter:  0.875"

- Width: 1.150"

- Oil Holes: Not Drilled - therefore positioning before pressing is less critical, but customer drills oil holes after fitting

- Weight of Little End: 40 gram (this will reduced to 38g after drilling oil holes)       

1077_3: M30/40 or Manx SOHC (and Longstroke DOHC) Type Little End - non-drillled oil holes:

This is the 'Racing' type Little end - as fitted to Longstroke magnesium crankcase racing engines - which like road models used an  0.875" Gudgeon Pin piston, but had a narrower width than roadgoing models - i.e. a 1.010" width con rod Little End eye.  (Again, tolerances may vary on your con rod by +/-10 thou, but the con rod Little End eye width should be approximately 1.00", and the piston similar.

Other vital dimensions for this type of Little End bush are as per 1077_1 and 1077_2 - but for this 'Racing' (Manx) type Little End, the oil holes are not pre-drilled, as racing (Manx) con rods have had slight variations on their oil holes over the years they were fitted.  Therefore the oil holes will need to be drilled by the customer to suit your individual con rod after fitting.  However - as a rule, genuine Lonstroke Manx rods normally had a minimum of two oil holes on the top of the rod - drilled in the centre line.  Because of the reduced width of the Manx conrod Little End eye, the diamond pattern was not used

(note - if you have one of these narrow rods, but with a Diamond oil pattern already drilled - chances are it started life as an Inter Con Rod and has been modified to fit an M30/Manx by a previous owner - not a good idea as it weakens the eye! - I have at least one of these in my collection!)

- Gudgeon Pin Diameter:  0.875"

- Width: 1.010"

- Oil Holes: Not Drilled - To be drilled by customer after pressing to their own con-rod oil hole pattern

- Weight of Little End: 34 gram (this will reduced further once oil holes drilled)       

1077_4: Standard SOHC (International), OHV or SV Type Width - But bored to receive a (non Norton) 0.750* Gudgeon Pin:

Due to the limited availabilty of replacement pistons for Norton single models over the years - it is not unusual for owners to have fitted similar dimension pistons from other Marques to their engines.  One of the most common 'substitute marques' to be used are BSA pistons - which most commonly, are fitted with a smaller diameter 0.750" Gudgeon Pin (i.e. BSA B40, B44 or B50 pistons in 500cc Norton OHV engines, or BSA twin pistons in 350cc Norton singles - all these piston types being fitted with 0.750" Gudgeon Pins).

This variation of Little End bush is to the same vital dimensions as 1077_2 in all other respects, but has a smaller Gudgeon Pin hole of 0.750", in case you have a standard width roadgoing SV.OHV, SOHC con rod - but wish to fit a piston as described above.

As with 1077_2 - the top oil way holes have not been drilled on this Little End Type - it being for the customer to do this after fitting.

Also - it must be remembered that this Little End will be slightly heavier than a standard Norton Little End and may affect the Balance Factor of the engine.  However - this may well be balanced out by the piston - so all piston components and Little End should be compared to the equivelant Norton components to work out if any re-balancing would be preferable  

- Gudgeon Pin Diameter:  0.750"

- Width: 1.150"

- Oil Holes: Not Drilled - customer drills oil holes after fitting

- Weight of Little End: 68 gram (this will reduce slightly after oil holes drilled)       

Price for all 4 variations is - Each.

Email sales@racingvincent.co.uk if you require more technical information on how to remove old Little End bushes, and fit new ones - but it would be expected that anyone attempting this task is familiar with engine build work and has a good understanding of this type of task already - or is trusting the task to an experienced engine builder

Manufactured by a well established and specialist British bearing supplier who have been making these Bigends for many years, these twin row caged roller bigends are made as per the original design and top quality (I use them in my own bikes).  Model 30 Big Ends come with Hex bigend nuts supplied.

Come supplied 'hot dipped' in protective grease as per photograph, as a complete assembled unit.

If you are unsure if your Bigend is International or early SOHC Manx (30M) - see the second photograph. Internatonal pins have a 14.5mm flywheel shoulder, while 30M's have a 10.5mm shoulder

Price is at Feb 2021, but may rise after this time - we will confirm back current price when ordered (with no obligation to purchase!).  FYI - If these are showing out of stock - it normally means we have a new batch on order, so feel free to order and we will email when a new batch is expected in - this normally is no longer than 1 - 2 months from showing out of stock

Note: We can also offer a service to fit these Bigends into your original conrod and hone the outer bearing (we use a Delapena Speedhone, a professional honing machine) - See Item 0072E for this service, but do not send conrods without emailing us for timescales first, and to confirm conrod is correct type.  Also, when sending conrods to us - they must be fully insured and tracked and at customers own risk until they are confirmed and received by us.

- Manufactured by a well established British bearing supplier, these twin row caged roller bigends are made as per the original Model 40 350cc SOHC design (I use them in my own bikes). - Model 40 (350cc) International Big End, comes with Hex bigend nuts supplied.

Price is at Feb 2021, but may rise after this time - we will confirm back current price when ordered (with no obligation to purchase!).  FYI - If these are showing out of stock - it normally means we have a new batch on order, so feel free to order and we will email when a new batch is expected in - this normally is no longer than 1 - 2 months from showing out of stock

Note: We can also offer a service to fit these Bigends into your original conrod and hone the outer bearing (we use a Delapena Speedhone, a professional honing machine) - See Item 0072E for this service, but do not send conrods without emailing us for timescales first, and to confirm conrod is correct type.  Also, when sending conrods to us - they must be fully insured and at customers own risk until they are confirmed and received by us.