Manufactured by a well established British bearing supplier, these twin row caged roller bigends are made as per the original design (Like the International variety, I use them in my own bikes).

Fitted to Model 30M (Longstroke Manx type) SOHC and Pre 1962 (non-lipped) DOHC Shortstroke Manx's, i.e. those with magnesium crankcases - these Bigends are narrower than the 500cc Norton International Bigend assemblies we also sell (Item 0071), which can be seen in the second photograph for comparison.  The Manx crank was slightly narrower than the Inter crank, to allow for the fitting of a twin row bearing on the timing side crankcase.  If you are unsure which type of BigEnd you reqire - email us on sales@racingvincent.co.uk

We have also found that many 350cc magnesium crankcase M40/Manx models use the same Bigend - but the nuts can vary, and some early models look to have used smaller 42mm nuts (which we normally also keep a couple of in stock) - again email us first to confirm if you have one of these models, before placing order.

Note: These Manx type Bigend units can be supplied either with the 'Large' type Hex nuts (normally fitted to earlier Manx 500 SOHC Bigends or castellated nuts (most oftern fitted on later SOHC and DOHC Manx engines).   Please specify which nut type is required when ordering - or email us for details. As standard - these BigEnds normally come to us supplied with the later Castellated nuts fitted (and then Hot Dipped in grease as per photograph), but we normally keep at least one Manx Bigend without nuts fitted, so we can supply the earlier large 30M Hex Nuts instead. However, if required and only one remaining in stock, we can remove nuts from a BigENd with castellated nuts and fit the Hex nuts.

The pricd shown is for a Bigend fitted with Castellated Nuts - if fitted with Hex Nuts, the Bigend is normally slightly cheaper (approx £20)

The earlier Manx Bigends (all SOHC\DOHC magnesium cased pre-featerhbed engines and earlier Featherbed engines) used large 47mm AF Hex Nuts. Later shortstroke DOHC engines used castellated nuts.

We can supply both 500cc Nut types - Hex nuts being Item being Item 0072B and the castellated nuts being Item 0072C. If you are not sure if your flywheels should be using Hex nuts - look for the 'Mickey Mouse ear' cutaways, for grub screws (see 3rd photograph), which signify it was fitted with Hex nuts. Wherever possible, if the engine was fitted with these larger nuts, you should try and refit them, as they provide a larger surface area than castellated or International nuts - howevrer the castellated nuts are popular with many Manx owners and became standard fitment on Featherbed DOHC Manx models (but of course, require a special socket to fit - a socket can be made by grinding the outer ring of a standard large socket). 

Email us if you have a 350cc Manx crank, to confirm nut size before ordering.

Update January 2023:  These Manx type Bigends are now 'Special Order' to us - and therefore only manufactured in small numbers, hence why they are not cheap, sorry . . . but we assure you, our margin on these is at a minimum!  - at least we are still able to get them, which may not be the case in the future.

This is the twin row caged roller bigend assembly fitted to the later (Post 61) DOHC, it being of the lipped outer ring variety. It can also be fitted to earlier DOHC shortstroke Manx Nortons if required. - It is used in conjunction with thrustwasher on the reverse side, to reduce side thrust. I have this type fitted to my '55 Doubleknocker (see 2nd photograph) - Note: Manx Bigends are normally supplied without castellated nuts, but this Bigend came already 'hot-dipped' in grease with the nuts on, so the price quoted includes the nuts

Update January 2023:  These later lipped Manx type Bigends are now 'Special Order' to us - and therefore only manufactured in small numbers, hence why they are not cheap, sorry . . . but we assure you, our margin on these is at a minimum!  - at least we are still able to get them, which may not be the case in the future.

These Hexagonal nuts are of the correct type as fitted to all magnesium crankcased SOHC and early DOHC racing engines and are made as per the original design - i.e. 47mm Across Flats, for fitment to the magnesium crankcase bigends (see item 0072) .

Price is each.

This larger diameter nut allowed more 'holding area' than the small International nuts, probably because the Manx pins had less depth. - Price is 'per nut' -

If you are not sure what type of nuts your engine should be fitted with : Earlier Manx 500CC Bigends (all SOHC\DOHC magnesium cased pre-featerhbed engines and earlier Featherbed engines) used large 47mm AF Hex Nuts.

However, if you have a pre-war SOHC M40 350cc model (i.e. pre-war 350cc magnesium crankcase Manx model) - please check with us before ordering - we have found in the past it is most likely that model will be fitted with the standard Manx 500 type Bigend, but often be fitted with the smaller 42mm nuts - we normally keep a couple of these in stock, same price as the 47mm nuts) 

Later shortstroke DOHC engines used castellated nuts (but either type can be used - providing you have the correct spanner for each). I can supply both types. If you are not sure if your flywheels should be using Hex nuts - look for the 'Mickey Mouse ear' cutaways, for grub screws (see 2nd photograph), which signify it was fitted with the bigger type Hex nuts. Wherever possible, if the engine was fitted with these larger nuts, you should try and refit them, as they provide a larger surface area than castellated or International nuts.

These castellated nuts are of the type originally fitted to later DOHC BigEnds and are made as per the original design.

- Price is 'per nut' - If you are not sure what type of nuts your engine should be fitted with :

Earlier Manx Bigends (all SOHC\DOHC magnesium cased pre-featerhbed engines and earlier Manx Featherbed engines) used large 47mm AF Hex Nuts (see Item 0072b for these).

Later shortstroke DOHC engines used castellated nuts. I can supply both types.

If you are not sure if your flywheels should be using Hex nuts - look for the 'Mickey Mouse ear' cutaways, for grub screws (see 2nd photograph), which signify it was fitted with Hex nuts. Wherever possible, if the engine was fitted with these larger nuts, you should try and refit them, as they provide a larger surface area than castellated or International nuts.

However, some people prefer castellated nuts as they have the special spanner/socket needed to tighten these nuts and can provide a lot of pressure with that type of spanner - if so, they can be used on SOHC type Bigends

- Made for the standard 500cc twin row caged roller type bigend, as fitted to both Internationals and Manx's, this is the outer ring only - If you have a good Big End pin already and only want to purchase new rollers and an outer ring, then this item can be purchased seperate - Note: it goes without saying, that having fitted this new ring to your conrod, it is the customers responsibility to ensure it is honed to the correct fit for your rollers and Bigend pin

Select this item if you wish to enquire about a 'Special Order' BigEnd or Bigend Parts for your Norton SOHC/DOHC model. 

If you have flywheels with slightly worn shoulders we may be able to help - and can sometimes supply (by special order) BigEnds with oversize shoulders or other modifications - If irequiring this service, select this item when making your order - we will email you back to confirm details.

However - please be aware, if you have worn flywheels which do not provide a good interferece on a standard BigEnd shoulder - you should always first check and satisfy for yourself that the flywheels are not cracked (we would recommend using a Dye Penetrant Test) and the shoulders are suitable for accepting oversize shoulders. We will then enquire if we have bigend manufactured to your requirements.

Sorry, but once we have quoted a price and ordered the BigEnd to your requirements - we will not be able to accept Returns.  We would also required a 30% deposit at the point the Special Order is confirmed.

Email us for further detail at sales@racingvincent.co.uk

(For long time customers - you may remember we used to offer a Honing service for BigEnds - offering to press a new BigEnd into your conrod then Hone it for you - ready for you to fit back into your flywheels.  Sorry, - we no longer have the means to carry this out on-site (our Delapena Honing machine has now gone), but we may still be able to assist with this service, again by special order- again email us for details

SOHC Engine Sprocket (all models) for Pre-Featherbed models.  Various teeth available from 17T to 23T.

Note Feb 2022:  Sorry, but we have now ran out of our most popular 19T and 20T sizes . . . I am looking to find a new manufacturer, but am struggling in post Covid times - if anyone has suggestions on a good UK sprocket maker I would be glad to hear from you

These sprockets have the correct offset for aligning with the clutch sprocket of all pre-Featherbed models, these are identifiable from Featherbed sprockets (Item no 0651) in that there is more boss in front of the sprocket on pre-Featherbed, while the Featherbed type has almost the same amount protruding from the rear as it does in front of the sprocket.

To find offset: Place ruler across front of inner boss at the front of the sprocket.  The distance from the ruler face to the sprocket face for Pre-Featherbed type is:  Approx 11.5 mm

To double check - see the second photograph showing the offset and compare to Item 0651 for Comparison

This listing is for one sprocket, but we have various number of teeth.  If you are using your Norton Cammy for competition events, it is normal to have a range of sprockets, and then change your sprocket dependent on circuit or event.  I keep a full range for my own race bikes, as well as a sprocket puller and 3 or 4 primary chains.   If I am doing short sprints or hillclimbs I might use a small 17T or 18T for best initial acceleration, or taller gears for road use (i.e. 19/20/21T) or circuit racing.  We also have a handful of new 23T sprockets - which I gather was Daytona gearing or longer circuit.

Select the Sprocket teeth number you require from the drop down list.  If the sprocket with the number of teeth you require is not visible, we may have ran out or not have it available - in which case you can email us on sales@racingvincent.co.uk

Notes for fitting sprockets:  First of all, get a proper sprocket puller!, either 2 leg or 3 leg.  All Norton SOHC engines were fitted with a woodruff key, which we also supply - but frankly if you have the sprocket well fitting, you probably dont need it (but you should not omit it).

If you are removing a sprocket - fit the 2 or 3 leg puller, ensuring the centre point is acting on centre of mainshaft and will not damage thread.  Tighten up puller until it gets difficult to pull any more.  However, the easiest method is at this point to give the end of the sprocket puller shaft a hefty clout with a copper or hide mallet sideways on!  You will find it is this sideways 'jarring' that will most effectively loosen the sprocket from the taper of the mainshaft.  You can keep tightening, but the sideways 'clout' is very effective.

When fitting a new sprocket - I always grind it in with valve paste first - this ensures a good fit on the taper.  Just buy good quality valve seat paste off Ebay and first approx 5 mins of coarse paste on the inner face of sprocket taper and corresponding mainshaft, then switch to fine paste.  When complete you should see a lovely fine grey finish across the whole surface of both matcing faces, indicating the sprocket is fully mated to mainshaft.  Then a final check, place woodruff key an make sure the woodruff is not sitting proud of the slot in the sprocket - which will stop the sprocket taper fully mating with the mainshaft taper.  Get this right and you will definitely need to give the sprocket puller a sideways clout to get it off!

SOHC Engine Sprocket (all models) for Featherbed models.  Various teeth available from 18T to 22T.

These sprockets have the correct offset for aligning with the clutch sprocket of all Featherbed SOHC models, these are identifiable from  the early Pre-Featherbed sprockets (Item no 0650) in that there is less boss in front of the sprocket and more at the back of the sprocket than the pre-Featherbed type.  They may also fit early DOHC Manx models, if your engine has a taper fit crankshaft (i.e. not spline)

To find offset: Place ruler across front of inner boss at the front of the sprocket.  The distance from the ruler face to the sprocket face for Featherbed type is:  Approx 7.2 mm

To double check - see the second photograph showing the offset and compare to Item 0650 for Comparison

This listing is for one sprocket, but we have various number of teeth.  If you are using your Norton Cammy for competition events, it is normal to have a range of sprockets, and then change your sprocket dependent on circuit or event.  I keep a full range for my own race bikes, as well as a sprocket puller and 3 or 4 primary chains.   If I am doing short sprints or hillclimbs I might use a small 17T or 18T for best initial acceleration, or taller gears for road use (i.e. 19/20/21T) or circuit racing.  We also have a handful of new 23T sprockets (Pre-Featherbed only) - which I gather was Daytona gearing or longer circuit.

Select the Sprocket teeth number you require from the drop down list.  If the sprocket with the number of teeth you require is not visible, we may have ran out or not have it available - in which case you can email us on sales@racingvincent.co.uk

Notes for fitting sprockets:  First of all, get a proper sprocket puller!, either 2 leg or 3 leg.  All Norton SOHC engines were fitted with a woodruff key, which we also supply - but frankly if you have the sprocket well fitting, you probably dont need it (but you should not omit it).

If you are removing a sprocket - fit the 2 or 3 leg puller, ensuring the centre point is acting on centre of mainshaft and will not damage thread.  Tighten up puller until it gets difficult to pull any more.  However, the easiest method is at this point to give the end of the sprocket puller shaft a hefty clout with a copper or hide mallet sideways on!  You will find it is this sideways 'jarring' that will most effectively loosen the sprocket from the taper of the mainshaft.  You can keep tightening, but the sideways 'clout' is very effective.

When fitting a new sprocket - I always grind it in with valve paste first - this ensures a good fit on the taper.  Just buy good quality valve seat paste off Ebay and first approx 5 mins of coarse paste on the inner face of sprocket taper and corresponding mainshaft, then switch to fine paste.  When complete you should see a lovely fine grey finish across the whole surface of both matcing faces, indicating the sprocket is fully mated to mainshaft.  Then a final check, place woodruff key an make sure the woodruff is not sitting proud of the slot in the sprocket - which will stop the sprocket taper fully mating with the mainshaft taper.  Get this right and you will definitely need to give the sprocket puller a sideways clout to get it off!

Large right hand thread driveside nut, secures engine sprocket on taper - Fits all SOHC engines and early DOHC engines 

We now CNC machine/mill the hex from solid EN8 round bar, as Imperial higher tensile Hex bars are not almost unobtainable - so they have a nice crisp Hex finish as well as well!

This is the Woodruff key that is fitted on the driveside mainshaft and stops the sprocket from rotating. It fits all Norton single engines, SOHC and OHV and SV engines. This item is for a pack of 3 woodruff keys