SOHC M30/M40 (Competition model) - Rigid/Gardengate: Rear Brake Pedal Bearing

Product no.: 0739 A11M/502B

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Is your original Norton rear brake pedal worn and flopping around?  If so, then I am sure you are used to the vague wobbly feeling it gives, as well as reducing the leverage that can be applied to the rear brake.

Replacing the brake pedal pivot bolt with one of our new stainless steel pins (items 0652, 0653 or 0654) will help improve things, but if the original brake pedal is worn, you will only be getting part of the benefit unless you do something about the worn brake pedal as well.  This CNC manufactured phospher bronze bearing is available to resolve this issue, it having the same 0.5" internal bore as the original pedal bore, so will restore the brake pedal to its original 'as new' tolerance.

This bearing is meant for those competition Norton brake pedals of 0.885" width and 0.5" brake pin diameter - i.e. only the type fitted to some competition rigid and plunger framed M30 and pre-featherbed Manx models. This is not a common brake pedal - most brake pedals have a width of 1,00", but if you have one of the slimmer competition type - this is the correct bearing, and will fit pivot bolt 0654.  If you have a wider 1" brake pedal pin, then go to item 0738 instead

Fitting Hints:

We assume anyone fitting these bearings will already have relevent mechanical/engineering experience to know how to prepare the original brake pedal for this new bearing - but below are some notes to help.  If you do not have relevent experience or tooling to take on this job yourself, I would recommend taking it to a local engineering company, whom I am sure could easily do it for you:

- Outer diameter of bearing is also an imperial size: 0.625" (or 5/8").  It is actually half to 1 thou over this, to allow an interference fit of the new bearing.  Internal diameter of bearing is a slide fit over our 0.5" brake pedal pivot bolts, as supplied

- We would advise bore the original brake pedal pivot bolt hole out to a size slightly smaller than 0.625" first (in the accompanying photographs we used a 15.5mm drill bit in a pillar drill).  Be extremely careful when doing this, and try and mount the brake pedal in a fixture so it cannot easily grab and rotate the brake pedal (and always wear eye protection) - follow all normal health and safety rules in doing this.  Once pre-bored, the final hole can then be reamed out with a 0.625" reamer.  In the photograph we are using a 0.625" hand reamer with a large tap wrench and plenty of light oil cutting fluid

- Use a vertical press if you have one, to press the new bearing in, flush with the back face of the brake pedal.  There is a larger chamfer on one end of the bearing to assist with this.  If you do not have a vertical press/bench press, then a strong vice with soft jaws mounted should suffice.  If your hole opened up slightly and it is not a press fit all its length, it may be worth also applying Loctite Bearing fit/Retaining fluid on the external face of the new bearing when pressing it in.

- The new bearing is a nice 'size' slide fit on our brake pedal pivot bolts as supplied.  However, dependent on the tolerance of the hole you have bored in the brake pedal, after pressing the new bearing in - you should test that the new bearing has not 'closed up' fractionally and is tight on the pin - if so, you should lightly hand ream the new bearing (0.5" reamer) so it is a nice slide fit on the pivot bolt.  This is standard engineering practice when press fitting any plain bronze bushes. 

- Once fitted, it is a good idea to carefully remove the grease nipple on the brake pedal and re- drill the bearing oiling hole to allow for future greasing of the brake pedal

Item listing is for one bearing (brake pedal pivot bolt kit sold seperately)

Final point - the picture of the brake pedal in the 3rd and 4th photos are actually a wider 1" brake pedal (used for listing 0738), but the slimmer width M30/Manx type is very similar, although dependent on year - are often straighter to the pedal, and the pedal of competition models normally have a straight cut, rather than the criss-cross pattern of road models.  The arm holding the brake rod can vary in length and angle dependent on the type of frame originally intended for,

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