This is the steel jet holder that screws into the inner timing cover on SOHC and pre-1938 OHV/SV models - and retains the big end oil feed plunger/quill.

It was also fitted to WD16H models (that continued to use this type of big end oil feed, when the civilian SV/OHV models had had a timing cover re-design in 1938). 

The same holder is also used on all SOHC central oil feed (competition type) cambox bevel covers. 

The quill holder has a flat milled on it - which will coincide with a flat milled on whichever casting it is used in conjunction with - it is always a good idea to get these in line when first fitting the quill holder - as they are normally a size fit - once in line, the quill holder can be lightly tapped fully home with soft headed mallet.  Always ensure the plunger/quill and spring have smooth movement in the bore before final fitting to the engine.

When used in the timing case on SOHC and OHV/SV models - it was used in conjunction with a BigEnd type quill (with bigger oil feed hole) and when used in the SOHC cambox - it was fitted with either the normal length quill or the Feathebed shorter quill - both these quill types having a smaller oil feed hole than the bigger Big End quill. 

The accompanying photos show the quill holder as part of the assembly for all these applications - note, this listing is just for the steel quill holder - all other parts of fhe assembly are sold seperately.  Price is Each.

Note -we also sell a similar version (0082_2), which has a shoulder which is 2 thou oversizew - if you have a timing cover where the original hole for this holder has worn oversize.

This is the bronze quill/plunger used to feed oil to the Big End Bearing, as fitted to OHV and Side Valve (SV) models from 1938 onwards.

We CNC manufacture these quills to the original Norton pattern from the best quality Colisbro Nickel Silicon bronze (it has a more coppery look than regular phospher bronze, and Norton originally used a similar hard wearing material).

This style of bigend quill was fitted to both OHV and Side Valve models from 1938 onwards.  The only exception to this was the 1937 style WD (i.e. army model, not commercial type) 16H engine, which continued to use the earlier style Big end quill (Item 0080) for the duration of WWII.

We also sell seperately the correct spring for this Quill type, which is Item 0988 (and worth noting that this type spring has a different profile to the earlier quill spring used in pre-1938 OHV/SV engines.  It is also worth considering buying a spare spring as they are very easy to drop out and get lost when removing the timing cover.

If you are in any doubt which Big End quill your Side Valve or OHV model should use, then email us at sales@racingvincent.co.uk and we can assist.

Additional Note Dec 2020:  The picture shows one of these quills mounted in the original quill holder that is screwed into the Timing Case of These models.  We do not currently manufacture the holder, but may do so if there is demand - email us on sales@racingvincent.co.uk. If you a timing cover with this quill holder in place and are trying to remove it - it is worth noting that this item has a Left Hand Thread . . . so must be unscrewed the opposite way to normal!

- This is the spring that fits inside the bronze quill/plunger used to feed oil to the Big End Bearing, as fitted to OHV and Side Valve (SV) models from 1938 onwards. We also manufacture the OHV Big End Quill that this spring fitted - Item 0964.

This listing is for the spring only - the main photo just shows the quill this spring is intended for, as the earlier quill uses a different spring.  It is also worth considering buying a spare spring as they are very easy to drop out and get lost when removing the timing cover.

Note, if you have a pre 1938 OHV/SV engine (or WD 16H engine), they used the earlier long type quill, and a different length conical spring - they are not interchangeable with this spring.  However, we manufacture both those earlier items as well.

These springs are manufactured by our trusted UK based spring manufacturer and are nice quality - an original Norton OHV Quill spring was used as the pattern.  

When fitting quill and spring, ensure both are lightly smeared in fresh oil and that the steel quil receptor has no signs of dirt or grease present.  When fitted the quill should just protrude from the quill jet holder and when pressed in should have a nice and smooth action and should return to it original unsprung position by itself. 

If you have any doubts as to if the tip of your quill is making contact with countersink in the flywheel mainshaft oil feed - you can smear a small anount of 'Engineer Blue' or similar marker on the end of the quill and then trial assembly the timing cover, rotate crankshaft a few times and then check to see if the 'Engineers Blue' has been touched, indicating the quill is making contact correctly.

Correct (and as per original) 1/4" BSP 'One Way Valve' - as fitted to all Norton singles, including all SOHC, OHV and SV models - this item screwing into the recess just above the drive side main bearings, allowing the engine to breathe correctly

This special 'one way' valve' looks almost identical to the 1/4" BSP 'straight through' breather that was also fitted to various Norton single cylinder engines, but serves a very different purpose - it being fitted just above the driveside main bearings, and allowing the engine to 'breathe out' but not ''breathe in', which is achieved by the use of small bearing fitted inside the valve.  

This valve was fitted to all SOHC (and DOHC) crankcases (as well as all OHV and Side Valve models) behind the drive side mainshaft casting. On original engines this special valve is almost always badly chewed engines and is now almost impossible to find. They were also fitted originally in bare brass, as shown. This version, like most items I am reproducing, has been manufactured to be indistinguishable to the original, and as normal in this case an original was used as the pattern.

The outer breather union is machined to the same Whitworth spanner hex as the original, is plain brass and has the same thru-hole size as original. It is threaded internally to take a small screw in insert, which retains a small ball bearing (in stainless steel, to prevent corrosion), which provides the one-way breather mechanism.

These should be fitted with the inner screw in section showing uppermost (just in case you are not sure), to ensure the breather allows pressure to escape out - not the other way round.  I get asked by lots of single cylinder Norton customers why their engine may be leaking more oil than normal or not oiling properly - I always direct them first to check if this one way valve has been replaced by a 'straight thru' breather by mistake, or even worse - it is fitted, but is screwed in the wrong way round!

As a final point - like the original Norton Items, our breathers can be stripped for cleaning if ever needed - but it is important to note which way the inner portion is screwed in, as although they look almost identical both ends - they are actually 'sided' with one slightly different to the other.  Once re-assembled, you should always blow through them, to ensure they will only passage of air in one direction

Update July 2023:  Now back in stock - of this popular (and for most Norton singles - very important) part.  FYI - these valves have a lot of setup time and multiple ops - to provide correct dimensions on all parts, including milling.  However - despite the cost of 'Imperial' hex brass bar having almost tripled since we last manufactured a batch 2.5 years - our price increase over that time has stayed far less.  

This is the oil delivery or return union that was fitted to the crankcases of pre-war OHV and Sidevalve models, then continued on the post-war OHV and Sidevalve (SV) models until approximately 1950-51 when the twin unions were replaced with a single 'cast' union junction box. These unions are CNC manufactured by us and faithfully replicate the original unions, including the correct Imperial hex spanner size.

An original brass A2/721 union (taken from a 1938-47 set of OHV crankcases, and definitely an original item from that engine) was used as the pattern to make these, and the dimensions were copied faithfully - including chamfers and differences in both ends.

Similar to the A11/721 union on SOHC crankcases and cambox's (Item 0248B), these unions have a chamfer to the hex on one end only, and that chamfer coincides with a flat end (as shown in the last photograph) - this is the end that screws into the crankcase.  The other end has a taper (rather than a flat end), and this is attach the standard 1/4" BSP tapered pipe unions.

Two are required per engine (Feed and Return).  Note: please check your crankcases if unsure, but from 1950 onwards, the OHV/SV engine crankcases were modified to use a single oil union block, instead of these seperate unions - see the photographs attached, and email us if unsure.

These Red Fibre Washers are a smaller diameter than 'normal' 1/4" BSP washers - but then pre-threaded by us - so they are a good fit on those Norton fittings that used 1/4" BSP thread, but have a groove behind the thread - e.g. Norton pre-48 Oil Sump Plugs and some breather union fittings. 

This listing is for a bag of 5 washers

Background:

For anyone that is familiar with Norton single cylinder models (and earlier twins) - they will know that it was not unusual to make some oil and petrol fittings with a 1/4"BSP thread, but with a groove machined between the thread and the rear face of hex spanner head.  Added this, often the hex was not very wide (what you will see referred to as 'Reduced Hex' by us throughout this catalog for Norton specific fastenings), so there was little hex face for the fibre washers to seal against.  

The two best examples of this are the Pre-48 style 1/4" BSP Norton Sump Plug (in all its guises) and some breather unions (see photographs - some Unions had grooves, while others did not).

Therefore, if you try and fit a 'normal' 1/4" BSP red fibre washer to this type of sump plug or union - it will go on easily, but when it gets to the groove - it will wobble around.  Then, when the sump plug or union it tightened, the wobbling washer will normally move over to one side - and there will be a very good chance it will leak, or just crush and break up when tightened.

In the past we have sold this size of 'tighter fit' washer - telling customers they will need to be prepared to use some force to wind the washer past the thread - but franky - the best quality red fibre washers are very hard, and extremely difficult to wind onto the thread!

Therefore, as part of work we did in early 2022 to replicate most Norton sump plugs, we also looked at how we could make this easier - and eventually have come up with a jig process to pre-thread these washers with a 1/4" BSP thread - as shown here.

So, although not very thick - if you look closely at these washers you will see they have an intenal thread cut into them (see also the taper tap we use for this process) . . . and that means that, although still tight, they can now be carefully screwed onto a 1/4" BSP thread by hand - but will a 'Size' fit on the groove behind the thread - therefore giving a much better chance for the washer to seal properly!

If trying to tap a single washer, it will normally just crush the washer, but with experimentation and a jig, we have come up with a process to manualy thread these washers, so they will just 'screw on' by hand.

This may sound like a simple issue . . . but actually most proprietary 1/4" BSP washers are actually quite loose on a 1/4" BSP thread (see our Item 1111 for 1/4" BSP washers that are a good fit!), but good quality red fibre washers are normally much harder than cheap washers - the washers we use are supplied by one of the best (and most expensive!) washer suppliers - and therefore require this pre-threading process . .. trying to screw it on without doing this is almost impossible.

Sorry these washers are so expensive for what looks such a simple and cheap looking thing - but hopefully you will understand that the jig and time it takes to manually thread them is what results in the extra cost - but definitely worth using if you prefer the original type Red Fibre washerer, rather than modern Dowty (nitrile/steel) washers.

We also sell these as a pair (Item 0941), or close fitting 'normal' 1/4" BSP washers (Item 1111) for those unions and tap fittings which dont have a groove behind the thread 

This is the small red fibre gasket that was fitted on to the lipped steel union on the outside of the gear oil pump fitted to all Side Valve and Overhead Norton models - and connected the oil feed to the outer timing cover. 

Fitting Notes: This gear type oil pump was fitted to all Norton OHV and Side Valve models through the mid 1920's to 1950's.  As can be seen from the photograph of an original oil pump (this one coming from a 1940's OHV engine), there was a small shouldered steel connector that pressed into the outermost face of the oil pump, which mated with a corresponding recess in the outer timing cover.

A red fibre waseher was used to give a seal between the two.  

We supply two thicker washers (which are the normal fitment size) - but also a 3rd thinner washer, in case the tolerances on your pump and outer timing cover require an additional washer to ensure a good seal.

Fitting Notes:  As this design was fitted for many years, I have seen minor variations in the machining tolerances of the steel shouldered connector that the red fibre washer presses over.  Therefore it is always a good idea to ensure that the fibre washer fitted will actually touch the timing cover mating face (it should just touch as the screws are tightened), to ensure best feed of oil.  There are various ways to do this - one of the ways I use to use was to mark the outermost face of the washer with 'Engineers Blue' marker paste, then ensure that marker touched the timing cover recess as screws were tightened - which would result in the Engineers Blue just touching the washer.  Obviously, whatever method is used - it is very important to ensure nothing enters the oil passageway.

These red fibre washers are the correct imperial dimensions (often - modern washers are too wide to fit in the recessed area in the outer timing cover - you should always check it does fit inside).  We supply two of the thicker washers - which are the normal size + an additional thin washer, in case it is required to ensure a good fit to th timing cover.  

Price is for 3 washers, 2 x thick and 1 x thin

This item is for a set of 4 original Norton New Old Stock (NOS) 1948 to 1956 type OHV or Side Valve timing chest phospher bronze camshaft bearings.  

Update May 2021: These original bearing sets have now sold out.  However, I held one set back, and should be making a batch on our CNC in the next 6 months.  If you wisht to reserve a set, emai on sales@racingvincent.co.uk.  Price still TBC

These original Norton camshaft bearing came from one of our older customers who remembers buying them from an old dealership many years ago - he thinks in the 1960's!  I have sorted them into complete sets and checked dimensions to ensure there is a matching set of 4 bearings in each set - the two bearings that fit into the crankcase are the same - so there are two of those, but the two that fit into the inner timing cover are each different and packed in a seperate bag.

These camshaft bearings are in good unused condition, and have the correct oil scrolls - they just have slight surface corrosion from having sat in a drawer for many years - but are still just as usable as when first made.

It is worth noting that the 1948/56 OHV/SV camshaft diameter was 0.625", but these bearings are machined approximately 10 thousandth of an inch undersize.  Therefore when you try them loose - you will find they will not fit onto the cam shafts.  This was clearly a purposeful feature of the Norton spare parts department - the idea being that the bearings are pressed into the crankcase/timing cover first, then should be final reamered with a 0.625" reamer once fitted - ensure they are the correct bearing tolerance after pressing.   Please take this into account when purchasing these bearings - they will need to be final reamered once pressed in, but this is how Norton's intended them to be fitted.

Additionally - ensure you check the original crankcase and bearing oil drain holes - dependent on year, there is sometimes a hole drilled into at least one of the camshaft bearings after fitting to feed oil - this to can only be done once the new bearings are fitted, and ideally should be done just before reamering.

I only have a few sets of these original Norton bearings  . . . so if your own camshaft bearings are worn (and often it is the side thrust area of these bearings which wear worst), this is a great opportunity to fit original 1950's Norton items!.

ps- if you own a 1938/47 OHV/SV engine - I cannot guarantee these bearings will fit that earlier model so cannot recommend them for that model, I have only measured dimensions against original 48-56 type engines (although I believe the 57-59 camshaft bearings were also the same as 48-56 engines).  

Removal of old camshaft bearings from the timing case:  Obviously, removing crankcase camshaft bearings and the inlet timing cover camshaft bearing is relatively simple - as a drift can be used to tap them out from the non-lipped side.  However, removal of the bearing from the blind hole in the timing case is much more difficult.  There is no easy and safe way of doing this (that I know) without using a special tool.  However, one way to do this is to obtain some kind of expanding pin that can be placed into the old timing case cam bearing, then tightened so that the expanding pin tightens against the bore of the bearing.  Then the timing cover can be placed in an oven to heat the alloy and a puller then used on the expanding pin to pull out the old bearing out, when hot (you may find that some building suppliers can provide suitable wall fixing bolts with expanding steel rawplugs which are usable for this job with some fettling) 

This item is for a pair of 2 original Norton New Old Stock (NOS) 1948 to 1956 type OHV or Side Valve timing cover phospher bronze camshaft bearings.  

These original Norton camshaft bearing came from one of our older customers who remembers buying them from an old dealership many years ago - he thinks in the 1960's!  I have sorted them into complete sets and checked dimensions to ensure there is a matching set of 4 bearings in each set - the two bearings that fit into the crankcase are the same - so there are two of those, but the two that fit into the inner timing cover are each different and packed in a seperate bag.

As well as having enough bearings in the old stock to make up full sets of 4 bearings (see Item 0937) - there were also a number of additional outer timing case bearings.  Ideally, if replacing camshaft bearings, it is better to replace all 4 bearings - but if you do not wish to strip the whole engine (which is required to fit and ream the crankcase bearings), and if your original timing cover bearings look worn (often it is the thrust face on the timing cover bearings that looks badly worn - leading to excess fore and aft movement of the cams in the timing case) - then just replacing these timing cover camshaft bearings will still be beneficial.

These camshaft bearings are in good unused condition, and have the correct oil scrolls - they just have slight surface corrosion from having sat in a drawer for many years - but are still just as usable as when first made.

It is worth noting that the 1948/56 OHV/SV camshaft diameter was 0.625", but these bearings are machined approximately 10 thousandth of an inch undersize.  Therefore when you try them loose - you will find they will not fit onto the cam shafts.  This was clearly a purposeful feature of the Norton spare parts department - the idea being that the bearings are pressed into the crankcase/timing cover first, then should be final reamered with a 0.625" reamer once fitted - ensure they are the correct bearing tolerance after pressing.   Please take this into account when purchasing these bearings - they will need to be final reamered once pressed in, but this is how Norton's intended them to be fitted.

Additionally - ensure you check the original crankcase and bearing oil drain holes - dependent on year, there is sometimes a hole drilled into at least one of the camshaft bearings after fitting to feed oil - this to can only be done once the new bearings are fitted, and ideally should be done just before reamering.

I only have a few sets of these original Norton bearings  . . . so if your own camshaft bearings are worn (and often it is the side thrust area of these bearings which wear worst), this is a great opportunity to fit original 1950's Norton items!.

ps- if you own a 1938/47 OHV/SV engine - I cannot guarantee these bearings will fit that earlier model so cannot recommend them for that model, I have only measured dimensions against original 48-56 type engines (although I believe the 57-59 camshaft bearings were also the same as 48-56 engines).  

Removal of old camshaft bearings from the timing case:  Obviously, removing crankcase camshaft bearings and the inlet timing cover camshaft bearing is relatively simple - as a drift can be used to tap them out from the non-lipped side.  However, removal of the bearing from the blind hole in the timing case is much more difficult.  There is no easy and safe way of doing this (that I know) without using a special tool.  However, one way to do this is to obtain some kind of expanding pin that can be placed into the old timing case cam bearing, then tightened so that the expanding pin tightens against the bore of the bearing.  Then the timing cover can be placed in an oven to heat the alloy and a puller then used on the expanding pin to pull out the old bearing out, when hot (you may find that some building suppliers can provide suitable wall fixing bolts with expanding steel rawplugs which are usable for this job with some fettling) 

This is a complete crankcase and timing chest cheesehead screw set for 1930's to 1947 type OHV and Side Valve Norton single cylinder models - i.e. Model 18, ES2, Mod 19, 16H and Big 4.  It consists of full timing case inner and outer cheeseheads, Inner timing case countersink screws and crankcase sump cheesehead screw - all of these being CNC bar-turned in stainless steel to the original period Norton dimensions and head pattern.  See detail listing for more information.

As you can see from the photographs, this cheeseheaad set is shown fitted in the photographs to a 1938 OHV Model 18 engine, but the timing case and crankcase screws are the same for the corresponding Side Valve (SV) crankcase.  

This particular model of crankcase was used on both OHV and SV models between 1937 and 1947, and we have faithfully replicated all cheesehead and countersink screw dimensions from that type of engine.  However, the earlier design of OHV and SV crankcase (late 1930-37) is also very similar to this type, sharing the same main timing cover cheeshead screws, crankcase screw and countersunk screws - but the earlier design of OHV and SV design only used two cheesehead screws for the outer magneto chain cover, while this design used 3 screws. 

Please email us on sales@racingvincent.co.uk if you require the similar cheesehead set for the earlier 30-37 design, we may be able to make that set up as well.

This set consists for following:

7 x Main timing chest cover screws

2 x Countersunk screws that fit into the magneto chain cavity (also available seperately as Item 1004)

3 x Outer magneto chain cover screws: 2 x long ones (into main cover) 1 x short (top left)

1 x Very long crankcase sump screw

12 x High quality red fibre washers to fit behind cheesehead screws (11 screws + 1 spare washer1)

All screws are bar turned stainless steel which we CNC manufacture in-house.  For every screw, dimensions are faithfully replicated from original screws.  We also ensure the cheesehead head pattern is faithfully replicated from the original Norton screw, and these are actually slightly wider diameter heads than most commerically available 1/4" diameter cheesehead and allen screws.

The set also includes 12 high quality red fibre washers (we always include an extra fibre washer - in case you lose one under the bench!).

Sorry, not as cheap as some of the mass produced type available – but these are CNC turned from stainless steel bar with milled head slots to the original dimensions in small batches.

Final assembly points:

All engine timing covers and rockerbox covers of this period were originally fitted with red fibre washers behind them, which often get omitted.  We recommend always fitting these and supply a high quality example (which are much better quality than most commercially available).

This type of OHV and SV engine design also used countersunk screws in the magneto chain cavity - which normally get badly chewed on original examples.  If you look closely at original timing covers, you will find that these screws were normally stopped from coming loose by centre punching the surrounding aluminium cover, alongside the scredriver slot.  We will leave it to customers to decide on the best way to secure these screws - but the original method seems to work well, and in modern times there is also stud lock fluid available.

Final point:  We sell this as a separate set - but for OHV engines, we also sell a corresponding Rockerbox Cheeshead Set (Item 1001).  Those two sets bought together provide a full cheesehead set for OHV models.  (they are sold separately as the crankcase set will fit both Overhead valve and sidevalve models).