This is a complete brake rod assembly to fit an early Douglas 2 3/4hp model of early  type.  It consists of Douglas modelled square brake clevis/brake rod, two locknuts, square headed brake pedal/clevis bolt, washer locknut - CNC manufactured in stainless steel from an original Douglas pattern.  Overall length of brake rod with clevis is approximately 490mm (but other length may be possible on request).

I copied this bolt and brake rod/clevis assembly from an original assembly from a very rusty but original early Douglas front brake assembly - which I am almost certain was of the type of assembly fitted to the 1910-1912 models - to the front downtube.  I have seen a very similar assembly and brake pedal fitted to period photos of this model - where it was not uncommon to have a two sets of footrests, the normal set just in front of the two speed countershaft, and another forward positioned assembly mounted at the base of the front down tube.  

The clevis is of the same profile as the original and comes attached to a 1/4" diameter stainless steel brake rod with 1/4 BSC thread at the opposite end, exactly of the same length and thread length as the original.  The stainless steel brake pin with distinctive square head is the same 1/4 BSC thread bolt as item 0687.

Finally the brake rod and clevis have been polished - if we say so ourselves they look really nice.  All CNC machined in stainless steel.

Note: I am aware Douglas brake rods for this model were made in numerous configurations over the lifespan of the model.  Let me know if you require a different brake rod length or configuration, I can quote for different lengths or options

This listing is for a CNC manufactured clevis, square headed clevis bolt, washer and locknut to fit an Douglas 2 3/4hp model of early  type.  All are manufactured in stainless steel from an original Douglas pattern

I copied this bolt and brake rod/clevis assembly from an original assembly from a very rusty but original early Douglas front brake assembly - which I am almost certain was of the type of assembly fitted to the 1910-1912 models - to the front downtube.  I have seen a very similar assembly and brake pedal fitted to period photos of this model - where it was not uncommon to have a two sets of footrests, the normal set just in front of the two speed countershaft, and another forward positioned assembly mounted at the base of the front down tube.  

The clevis is of the same profile as the original and comes threaded with  1/4" diameter BSF/BSC thread profile, ready to accept a 1/4" brake rod.  This is the same clevis and bolt as fitted to our complete brake rod assembly (Item no  0691) - in case you wish to make your own brake rod, and fit this clevis to the end (as there were many lengths and different bend types of brake rods fitted to these models over the year.

Each clevis and bolt are linished and pollished and look very nice.

If you require brake rod stainless steel, email us on our sales email and we can quote for this seperately

This is a CNC manufactured clevis in stainless steel to fit the 2 speed gearbox fitted to Douglas 2 3/4hp models.  It is copied from an orgiinal Douglas clevis.  (may also fit other gearboxs for Douglas's of this era.

As you can see in the second photograph, the clevis is fitted onto the selector rod shaft of an original 2 speed Douglas gearbox of the type fitted to Douglas 2 3/4hp models of approx 1912-1923.

the hole is 0.3125" (5/16") and the clevis is threaded to take a 0.250" (1/4") BSF/BSC thread.

Note: email us on normal sales email if you require 1/4" stainless steel rod to go with this clevis, we may be able to quote for that as well

This item listing is for a Renolds Synergy 1/2" x 3/16" primary chain and split link to fit a pre-1920 Douglas 2 3/4hp Model.  Renolds Synergy is their best chain and comparable to the old GP chain - excellent for open primary chains.  

As per the original Douglas Instruction Manual - this chain will be 68 links in length, including the split link (if you think yours needs to be longer because you are running a larger sprocket - please email seperately on sales@racingvincent.co.uk and we can supply to length pro-rata).

Renolds Synergy is their best chain and comparable to the old GP chain.  It costs about 2.5 times the amount of normal Renolds primary chain, but is worth the extra expense - and is excellent for open primary chains with little means of oiling.  I am fitting it to my own 1919 Douglas 2 3/4hp model.

Please note:  The Douglas Instruction Manual says that 1/2" x 3/16" chain was fitted to S/W and C/W models and (I believe) prior to 1920.  While 1920 - 23 models were fitted with slightly larger 5/8" x 1/4" chain.  Please check which you have fitted before ordering - I have found the smaller/earlier type are often fitted to 5 hole gearbox sprockets rather than later 6 hole sprockets - but there look to have been numerous types. 

We do not currently stock the larger 5/8" primary chain, but should be able to obtain it by special order - email on sales@racingvincent.co.uk

This item listing is for a Renolds Synergy 1/2" x 3/16" primary chain spare split link to fit a pre-1920 Douglas 2 3/4hp Model. 

Always keeping a spare link in your toolbox and Renolds Synergy is their best chain and comparable to the old GP chain. 

We also sell complete primary chains for this model - Item 0867, which again is the Synergy type.

Renolds Synergy is their best chain and comparable to the old GP chain.  It costs about 2.5 times the amount of normal primary chain, but is worth the extra expense - and is excellent for open primary chains with little means of oiling.  I am fitting it to my own 1919 Douglas 2 3/4hp model.

This item listing is to provide a replacement sprocket for your original worn Douglas ‘5 hole’ 1/2" x 3/16" early type gearbox sprocket – using a modern industrial equivalent sprocket template, machined to your desired internal diameter. This 5 hole type sprocket was of the type commonly fitted to pre 1920 Douglas 2 3/4hp models - not the later 6 hole type, which were of a different pitch.

This bespoke service makes the assumption you will re-use your original Douglas sprocket, having first removed the old teeth yourself – and machined a good centralised outer diameter – providing us with the outer diameter of that machined boss, so we can machine a ‘blank’ industrial sprocket to the same dimension – with a slight groove on one side to hold braze.

You can then ‘tap fit’ this new sprocket onto your original Douglas 5 hole centre section, and braze the new sprocket in place – as I did in the photographs shown here.

Note – the price shown is indicative only (we order the sprockets in as special order – so will quote a machining price once order placed – no obligation to purchase until the sprocket order is placed).  Also note – these industrial sprockets are hard, but not hardened – so may not be as long lasting as original sprockets - however as original sprockets have been unobtainable for many years – and few people run these models for high mileages – This sprocket should provide a suitable compromise.

It is expected the owner takes full responsibility for supplying the correct internal diameter the new sprocket is to be machined to – and undertakes the task of removing the old teeth and brazing the new sprocket to the original boss themselves.  Email for further details.

Note – the original Douglas sprocket shown in the photograph was 30 teeth, however, the new sprocket supplied will be 31T (or possibly larger if you require it) to allow for the brazing process not leaving braze overly close to the chain.

We can also supply good quality Renolds chain of the correct pitch/length – see item 0867

Full Fitting Service Option:

Dependent on my availability and condition of your original sprocket – I may be able to undertake this work (at customers own risk) of fully machining your original sprocket and fitting a new one – but cost would be substantially higher than shown, due to the complexity of the job – expect a total cost to remove old teeth, machine boss, machine sprocket to fit, braze new sprocket on of somewhere between - £180 - £200.  Please state if you require this service and we will email you back for more detail.

We would much prefer you carry out the work yourself though – and can provide you detail information on how to do this if reqired – following same process we followed

This listing is for a set of 4 Raised (i.e. Domed) countersink petrol tank location screws, to fit Douglas 2 3/4hp models.  The underside of the head has the correct taper to match the frame lugs and the thread profile is the unusual and non-standard 7/32" x 24 tpi thread particular to this Douglas model.

These screws are CNC machined in Stainless Steel and the heads are then lightly mop polished - looking very similar in appearance to the original Nickel Plate finish of this period - and if I say so myself - look very pretty.

Additional Information:   

Like many of the fasteners on early Douglas motorcycles, unusual threads were used - possibly so customers had to go back to Douglas themselves when they needed replacement!

The screws used on early flat tank Douglas 2 3/4hp models are an example of this - they being 7/32x24tpi.  They also have a 90 degree countersink which these screws have.  As part of rebuilding my own 1919/20 Douglas 2 3/4hp bike, I have manufactured a batch of these screws for other owners.  In making and checking these screws - I fitted them against the original petrol tank I have for my 1919/20 bike (still with original paintwork),  as well as another restored tank of approximately the same year.   I also checked them against a 3rd, much earlier 1912 tank I have in my possesion - which is of the earlier/slimmer construction used on Douglas 2 3/4hp models from approx 1911-1919.  The screw threads of our screws fitted all 3 petrol tanks.  Both early and later Douglas 2 3/4hp petrol tank types are shown in the accompanyning photogs.  Sorry, I am not sure which year this screw type were first fitted, or which year it was replaced - but I would expect it will probably fit all Douglas model petrol tanks from @1911-@mid 1920's, possibly later.  If not sure, feel free to email us on sales@racingvincent.co.uk 

I have manufactured these screws with a thread length of 0.440".  Frankly, I expected to have to make them with a longer length - but in checking all 3 original petrol tanks I have (i.e. a 1912 tank, a @1919 tank and a @1920-21 tank) - I found that making the screws any longer would mean them 'bottoming out' in at least one of each tank holes.

The head shape is lightly domed and is 0.420" diameter, which is wider than modern commercial screws but fits nicely against the original Douglas frame countersink.  I have looked at various pictures of original and restored Douglas models of this era and cannot find a picture that clearly shows an original screw, but have made the heads of these screws to a profile that looks appropriate and correct for a bike of that era.  

Final point if wanting to fit these screws - if your original threads are damaged or full of dirt (as some of the threads on my tank were), Tracy Tools (https://www.tracytools.com/) can offer a 7/32x24tpi tap in both taper and plug size, which is extremely useful for recovering the thread before fitting these screws.

This is a faithful reproduction of the gearlever knob fitted to early 2 - speed Douglas motorcycles - the 2 3/4hp and 4hp models.  It is CNC manufactured from exotic wood - either Wenge (dark) or Yew (light) to a high finish, lacquered and comes complete with CNC manufactured gearlever bolt in Stainless steel.  Price is for the pair

A bit of background to these:  as part of rebuilding my own Douglas 2 3/4hp model - I did have a knob with the correct original profile, but quality was not good, so decided to write a CNC program to replicate the same shape from an exotic hardwood.  The process to do this is quite labour intensive - I purchased seasoned branchs (yes brankchs - complete with bark!!) or unplaned lengths of exotic hardwoods, then turned them down into 'cotton reel' bobbins on my manual lathe.  I then bore and counterbore for the gearknob bolt - that sits almost flush, but bore deeper so I can fit a stainless insert into the wood, so it will reduce wear of the gearknob.  You  can see this process in the accompanying photographs.

I have then made jigs to hold the bobbin's in my CNC lathe so I can machine the original Douglas gearknob profile.  After machining, each gearknob is given a final polish with fine sandpaper, before 2/3 coats of ethanol proof clear acrylic lacquer.  As far as I know the original Douglas two speed gearknob was fitted to both 2 3/4hp and 4hp models up to the mid 1920's - but original knobs I have seen have normally been in a darker wood.   To replicate this dark wood I chose a very dense/heavy hardwood which is suitably dark - Wenge.  However, I also wanted to experiment with a lighter wood so I have also tried a length of Yew wood, which is much lighter but has a lovely veining between the inner and outer diameter.

As well as the wooden gearknob, I have also faithfully CNC replicated the gearknob bolt in stainless steel.  To ensure I got the right thread dimensions, I went to the original gearlever/bolt I had fitted to a second, heavily corroded, 1917 Douglas 2 3/4hp chassis I also have.  You can see in the photographs that the gearlever and bolt were very heavily corroded and most of the bolt had actually rotted away, along with any traces of the wooden knob itself.  But having derusted the lever/bolt, I was able to oxy/acetylened the lever to release the original bolt and - as hoped, this was able to provide me with a very good original thread profile and the small rounded nipple at the bottom of the bolt that fits into the gear plate recess.  From this I was able to ascertain that (not suprisingly), the original thread is a Douglas 'special' thread of 0.255" x 24 TPI, which I have replicated on these bolts.

Sorry these wooden knobs/bolts are not cheap - but are very labour intensive to produce.  That said, I do think that they add a very nice original touch and should look very nice if your current Douglas gearknob is looking a bit worn or dilapidated.

This is a CNC manufactured stainless steel reproduction of the bolt that retains the wooden gearknob fitted to two speed Douglas 2 3/4hp and 4hp models up from 1912'ish, to the mid 1920's.  It's thread and profile is copied from an original item and it has a shouldered plain shaft that allows the bolt to 'bottom' against the gearlever and the knob to spin freely

I have faithfully CNC replicated the gearknob bolt in stainless steel.  To ensure I got the right thread dimensions, I went to the original gearlever/bolt I had fitted to a second, heavily corroded, 1917 Douglas 2 3/4hp chassis I also have.  You can see in the photographs that the gearlever and bolt were very heavily corroded and most of the bolt had actually rotted away, along with any traces of the wooden knob itself.  But having derusted the lever/bolt, I was able to oxy/acetylened the lever to release the original bolt and - as hoped, this was able to provide me with a very good original thread profile and the small rounded nipple at the bottom of the bolt that fits into the gear plate recess.  From this I was able to ascertain that (not suprisingly), the original thread is a Douglas 'special' thread of 0.255" x 24 TPI, which I have replicated on these bolts.

Note - listing is for shouldered bolt only.  However, we also sell this bolt combined with the original gearknob - see Item 0698

These are the distinctive barrel headed screws that were used to retain the Low/High Gear gate to the frame on early Douglas 2 speed models - Douglas 2 3/4hp and Douglas 4hp models up until the early 1920's.  These screws are CNC machined to the original pattern in stainless steel.  Price is for a pair of screws.

As with many of the parts I make for these models, I have copied these as faithfully as I can from original patterns - to give correct thread (0.255" x 24 tpi - weird Douglas size!) and head dimensions.  As the photographs show, I took these patterns from an original 1917 second chassis I have, which I believe has original (although extremely corroded)  fittings.  I also used numerous photos of other original bikes to confirm head shape and profile that looked to be closest to original.  As you can from the photographs of them fitted to the Douglas 2 3/4hp model I am currently restoring myself - they do look nice, and being stainless steel will polish up similar to original nickel plated items.