This listing is for a pair of 3mm thickness Cork petrol/oil cap gaskets - to fit Edwardian style (flat tank) 1.875" screw on caps fitted to Douglas models (@1913 onwards) and many other Edwardian motorcycles.  Price is per pair of gaskets

As can be seen from the accompanyning photographs - these gaskets are made from best quality 3mm cork gasket material, with a breather hole pre-punched, in the position that matches with the hole on original petrol caps.  This type of 1.875" screw on thread - with a knurl at the top of the cap were fitted to most Douglas flat tank models - but this listing is for the 1913(ish) onwards petrol/oil tank model - where both petrol and oil filler caps employed a 1.875" filler cap.  

The accompanyning photographs show this style these caps with gaskets fitted to my 1919 Douglas 2 3/4hp petrol tank, which is slightly different design than the slimmer pre-1917 design.  However, the period Douglas spare parts catalog showed that this size of cap was fitted to the earlier design from 1913 onwards - so please check if you have that earlier design - but these should be correct for those models as well.

However, 1912 petrol tanks (and those before?) have a smaller oil filler cap - but we also offer a pair to that year of tank - see Item Listing 0986

The dimensions for these cork gaskets was taking from the two original caps in the photos (if you look very carefully, you will see one still has a makers mark stamped in the top), and are a snug fit inside the cap.  3mm gasket cork is the thickest gauge of cork we commonly see, and is of similar thickness to the original gasket that was still fitted to one of these caps - they squeeze down nicely when the cap is tightened on the tank.

Note: as a side note to these caps - if you look closely, you will see that these two caps look to be the original caps that were fitted to this highly original douglas petrol tank (which although sympathetically restored, is still in its original paintwork) - both have the same design and the same knurl, as well as a lovely patina.  However, if you look at the top of the caps you will see that only one of the caps has a breather hole - and this came fitted to the petrol tank side, which I would expect to be the case.  Therefore, although this may just be one-off, it may also be deliberate - and that the oil cap was not fitted with a breather hole (I suppose to stop leakage, or maybe maintain hand pump pressure?).   We have not differentiated for the washers, as it makes no difference on the oil cap if the gasket hole is present .. . so if you have two original caps with holes, ours should line up.

We may decide to make a batch of these screw on fuel/oil caps from stainless steel in the future, to the original pattern.  Email us as normal on sales@racingvincent.co.uk if you are interested

This listing is for a pair of 3mm thickness Cork petrol/oil cap gaskets - to fit Douglas 1912 models where the oil filler was smaller than the petrol filler cap - as shown in the accompanyning photographs.  Price is per pair of gaskets

As can be seen from the accompanyning photographs - these gaskets are made from best quality 3mm cork gasket material, with a breather hole pre-punched in the petrol cap, in the position that matches with the hole on original petrol caps.  This type of 1.875" screw on thread - with a knurl at the top of the cap were fitted to most Douglas flat tank models for the petrol filler - but after 1912 the period Douglas Spare Parts catalog shows that the oil filler was increased in diameter to the same size as the petrol filler - so if you have a model around 1913-14 you might want to double check which size oil filler cap you have - we do sell a pair of the larger size as well - Item 0984

These special cylinder shaped bolts are used to retain rear wheel Belt Drive rims to the rear wheel of Beaded Edge rims on Edwardian belt drive motorcycles. 

They  are cross drilled to be fed onto 12 Gauge (2.55 mm) spokes, and then have a small head and nut that feeds onto your belt drive rim. Each assembly consists of a small barrel (crossdrilled) fitted with a 4mm grubscrew (to lock the barrel to a 12 Gauge spoke, once in position and the rim is centralised, 2 stainless washers and a nut that is on the other end of the barrel - that attachs to a hole in the circumference of the belt rim - 5 small parts in all.  All parts are in stainless steel. 

These are sold as Each - (you will need to check your belt rim to decide how many you will need to use for your model, up to 10 seems to be the norm).

Background:

To give a bit more background:  Most pre-1920 Edwardian motorcycles used belt drive final transmission.  To do this, there were various types of 'spun' belt rims, which employed short spokes to attach them to the (beaded edge) tyre rim, but also needed some form of attachment to the spokes themselves, to avoid lateral movement of the belt rim. The rim shown in the photograph is an original Douglas 2 3/4hp rim of @1912-1918 vintage, and has a lip with holes in the lip for this purpose.  When I purchased this Douglas restoration project, this very rusty belt rim had a small original steel plate about 1cm long wired to it, which had two small holes, threaded to take screws.  Therefore it looks like the original method of retaining the rim to the spokes was to feed two small screws through the lip of the rim - one fed either side of the wheel spoke, and screwed into the steel plate behind the spoke.  Originally I was going to replicate these plates, but I thought it would like quite ungainly and messy, and had seen another belt drive motorcycle using a type of retaining bolt similar to the ones listed here - and thought it looked a far more elegant and clean solution.

Each 'bolt' is CNC manufactured from 0.250" round stainless steel, with a 2BA thread machined on one end (to feed through the hole in belt rim lip), and drilled and threaded to take a 4mm x 0.7mm hex head grub screw on the other end.  Each cylinder is then crossdrilled to allow it to be fed onto a 12 gauge (2.6mm) spoke, again this is part of the CNC manufacture.

Each cylinder type bolt is supplied with the hex grub screw already fitted, and two 2BA pan washers fitted and 2BA nut, ready to fit.  All parts are in stainless steel.  Method of fitting:  you will need to feed each bolt onto the wheel spoke before commencing the main wheel re-spoking, but these can then be left until you have completed the main wheel spoking operation.  I can see my original Douglas Belt rim looks to have used 8 retaining plates, however, I think using 10 means one bolt every 4 spokes, which should cover most types of belt rims.  Then the next step is to 'spoke' the belt rim to the beaded edge wheel rim.  when you commence this operation, also fit the belt rim laterally to all the pre-fitted 'cylinder bolts', but do not tighten the grub screw or the 2BA nuts at this stage.  Finish spoking the belt rim to the tyre rim, to ensure it is absolutely central.  Finally tighten the 2BA nuts and then the grub screws to the spokes to finish the operation, and check still all central.  I would also advise using Threadlock on both grub screw and 2BA screw on final tightening, to avoid them loosening off in use.

Note - we can sometimes supply 12 gauge stainless spokes etched black (as shown here) to fit Douglas 2 3/4hp hubs and belt rims - see Item 0804 (but please confirm your required spoke length correct when ordering

This is a Special Order listing for 12 gauge black etched spokes of the type fitted to Veteran Beaded Edge wheels of Edwardian era. 

In the photograph are shown 3 different lengths of spokes - on the right is a set of 40 spokes for a 26" x 2" front wheel, to fit the small cotton reel hub on the right in the photograph.

On the left a similar set of 40 spokes/nipples for a 26" x 2.5" rear wheel, using the standard Douglas 2 3/3hp hub shown in the upper left.

Finally in the middle is a set of 20 short 12 gauge spokes to secure the Douglas belt rim to the wheel rim.  In the background you can see a black enamelled beaded edge rear rim which has holes drilled in multiples of 3, where the spoke for the belt rim locates in the middle hole.

These spokes are high quality stainless spokes, black etched and look really nice.  Nipples are plated brass. They are supplied by my normal UK based manufacturer to my specified length.

I have made this listing 'Special Order'  because you will need to specify the length of the spokes you require, as well as angle of the spoke head - mine were all 90 degrees.  I found when building these wheels up myself that a number of factors can influence the length required - i.e. type of rim used, spoke pattern chosen (the biggest single factor) etc, therefore, if at all possible - try and use your original spoke as a pattern, and if you are rebuilding an existing wheel - use the dimension of your original spoke as a template for length and head angle.

As you can see - we can also supply the small spokes for holding a belt rim to the rim - if your veteran bike has belt drive - in the case of my Douglas wheels - 20 of these small spokes were required.  We also sell our own manufactured belt retaining bolts (see Item 0301) that are used in conjunction with these small spokes, to retain the belt rim tight up against the main spokes.  These belt rim retaining bolts are drilled to fit these 12 Gauge spokes.

As I am sure you will understand - it is important to make sure you measure the spoke length you require carefully - as these are Special Order, you will not be able to return them once manufactured.  Expect delivery to be approximately 6 weeks from being ordered - so leave plenty of time if intending to run the bike on the next Pioneer Run!

To order or ask for more information email us on: Sales@racingvincent.co.uk quoting this Item Number, or place an order for this item and stating details in notes section at checkout.

As an aside:  When building my own Douglas wheels with these spokes, I measured spokes carefully from originals - but still got the rear wheel length wrong, as I think I did not use the exact same spoke pattern as the original.  I ended up buying a special 12 gauge spoke threading tool and some additional spokes to cut to length.  Although the end result was pleasing - see photographs, it was extremely time consuming and hard work.  Therefore the message is clear - if at all possible, ensure you have the correct length of spoke taken from an existing wheel, and then make sure you copy the same spoke build pattern! 

Period Style (i.e. early 1900's to 1950's) Valve Caps - Pair

Anyone that has recently bought a new motorcycle inner tube will know they always come these days with a black plastic valve cap - most of them, with an inbuilt valve remover.  Even if you manage to find more period looking metal valve caps - most of them also seem to have the little extra bit at the top for removing the valve.  Although this valve remover is a useful feature - it also normally has a hole through it, which lets the air out and defy's the point of having a valve cap really!!

Therefore, we sell these very nice period looking steel valve caps, with a (red) nylon sealing washer on the inside, and nicely plated.  As well as looking period for any bike from the early 1900's through to the 1950's, they are closed, and therefore will not allow air to escape through the valve if your bike is stood up for long periods of time (like most of mine are!). 

In the accompanying photograph I have one fitted to my 1919-20 Douglas, which is fitted with Beaded Edge tyres - which are very susceptable to losing air, so hopefully these will help.  They look nice as well 

This is the main tank transfer fitted to most Douglas flat tank models - from approximately 1912 through to the early 1920's. The letters are white/ivory in colour, with a black surround.

The length of the transfer is approximately 4.5" long and the height is approximately 7/8" of the letters (although approximately 1" deep when taking into account the high 'L' and low 'G'.

When I was restoring my own Douglas 2 3/4hp model - which had a 1919/20 petrol tank, still with the original paintwork on lining on it (see accompanyning photographs) - I needed to sympathetcially restore the original Douglas lettering, and found these transfers to be almost identical to the original font.  I used a pair of these to assist with that sympathetic restoration of that tank - but also have the same transfers reserved for a spare 1920 style tank I have, and a second earlier Douglas tank I have of 1912 vintage.

I am not an expert on the different Douglas models - but I believe this transfer may have continued to be used on most flat tank models and into the 1930's - but you if you have a model from those periods - you will need to satisfy yourself they are correct for your model.

As with all our transfers - these come from a well established UK transfer manufacturer, are of the Waterslide type, and all our transfers come with instructions for fitting  

Price is Each

This is the transfer often fitted to the rear mudguard of Douglas flat tank models - it depicts a Scottish gentleman holding a Douglas 2 3/4hp engine aloft.  

This image seemed to have been used by Douglas in a number of marketing adverts in the early pre-1925 days, and more than one type of transfer exists of this type.

This particular transfer is gold and black artwork, with the words 'Douglas' highlighted in white.

Price is Each

The accompanying photos shows an example of this transfer fitted to my own 1919 Douglas 2 3/4hp rear mudguard

As with all our transfers - these come from a well established UK transfer manufacturer, are of the Waterslide type, and all our transfers come with instructions for fitting  

This unusual but very pretty and elaborate transfer was used on the Headstock of some of the earlier Flat Tank models. 

Price is Each

It consists of an elaborate crest with a red heart in the background.

I cannot be sure just which models it was fitted to - but believe it was fitted to early era Douglas 2 3/4hp and 4hp models.

As you can see from the accompanyning photos - I decided to fit one to my own Douglas 2 3/4hp model (which is approx 1919/20 type, but fitted with earlier pre 1917 front forks, which are visible in the picture.

As with all our transfers - these come from a well established UK transfer manufacturer, are of the Waterslide type, and all our transfers come with instructions for fitting