This is the bracket and rubber oil pipes that fits to the driveside rear engine plate on Rigid and Gardengate M30/Manx Nortons, allowing oil from the oil tank front primary oiler to be fed onto the primary chain

I have the braket laser cut, then bent to shape then copper pipe silver soldered to it, before fettling and finally satin nickel plated.  

The bracket comes complete with two lengths of black 'rubber' type oil pipe fitted and already lockwired (using stainless lockwire) to the bracket.  The pipes are supplied slightly over length so they can be trimmed to your bike.  They are 3/16" bore oil pipe and should link up directly to the front primary chain oilers of Manx wrapround oil tanks, which we also sell - Item No 0570.

Finally, with each bracket we also supply an additional 1ft length of stainless lockwire, so you can lockwire the top pipe to your oiler.  

In the accompanying photographs I show an image from the 1948 Norton Spare Parts Catalog, showing Manx oil tank and fittings, which shows this item as part no 10 (A11M/855).  I also show the actual bracket held against my part built 1937 Norton International, which although not fitted with a wapround tank, gives you an indication of where the pipe fits - allowing oil to be dripfed onto the lower rung of the primary chain

This is a 'Variable' Listing, showing various types of Norton sump plugs - as were fitted to most Norton models from the 1920's through to the 1950's, both engine and gearbox, and also some additional 'Racing' type, either drilled for Lockwire and even a couple 'Wasted' for weight saving.  All are modelled on original Norton sump plugs - with all major dimensions replicated .  Price is Each - but also includes the sump plug washer.  We also sell the various washer types serperately.  See the table below for details and fitting for each sump plug type we offer

All our sump plugs are CNC manufactured by ourselves to original dimensions, using original patterns as examples - and trial fitted to original crankcase and gearbox castings of various single cylinder models.  All 1/4" BSP sump plugs (i.e. 1011_1 to 1011_10) are manufactured in brass, just as original Norton sump plugs were - then satin nickel plated (also the most common original finish).  As well as replicating the original different designs manufactured over a 30 year period - they also look extremely pretty.  For most of the brass type sump plugs - we have also held back a few in bare brass - which was also an original Norton finish - but these are limited.

By default for items 1101_1 to 1101_10 - we will send a satin nickel plated sump plug - state when placing online order in the comment section if you require a brass version instead (if available)

Note also that many OHV and SV oil tanks were also fitted with 1/4" BSP Drain/Sump Plugs - often listed as part number E3336, where the head shape was often similar to our 1101_1 or 1102_2 - the second of these being a lockwired version, which is a useful addition on any oil tank.  Ensure your oil tank sump plug thread is actually 1/4" BSP before fitting though, but if so, any of our brass 1/4" BSP plugs should fit (note - many SOHC oil tanks did not have drain plugs fitted) 

Also the Norton 'Oilbath' Chaincase also used an E3336 sump plug - I have seen both plain head and slotted variety fitted to the chaincase in the past.  And of course a lockwired version is very useful if you are intending taking your roadbike on a Track parade.

Which Plug: 1/4" BSP, 1/8" BSP or another thread type?? - Different sump plug fittings:  It is worth noting that the first 10 sump plugs are all 1/4"BSP threads, which was by the far the most common fitting for gearbox and oil tanks and for engine sump plugs up to 1948.  However many Post 1948 Norton single cylinder (and other model) crankcases were instead fitted with a smaller thread sump plug thereafter - which was normally 1/8"BSP.  Most of these engines are identifiable from earlier engines, because the sump plug was mounted under the crankcase, rather than at the side, and there was often an additional casting ramp in front of the hole, to stop the sump plug being pulled out if the bike was 'grounded'. 

We have replicated this later Post 48 Sump plug as well - see items 1101_11 and 1101_12 (locwired version).  An original 1/8" Norton sump plug was again used as a template, which we have CNC replicated exactly - other than ours are manufactured in stainless steel, rather than the original plated steel material that original 1/8"BSP were made in - so ours will not rust. 

It is important that you check your fitting before ordering though - particularly if you have a Post 48 model - because the original 1/8"BSP plug used a very fine thread, and the sump alloy was not very thick . . . it is very common to find that the crankcase may have stripped its thread in the past and been fitted with a different - slightly larger thread.  I have found the most common 'larger' thread is 7/16" BSF (and I have a couple of crankcasses in my own collection since the 1960's that have had this done) . . . so because of this we have also manufactured a Post 48 sump plug - but with 7/16" BSF thread - Item 1101_13.  I have talked to other highly experienced Norton engine builders and they also confirm stripped threads on later engines is a common occurrence.  Please satisfy yourself which thread you require before ordering

Types Available are as Follows:

Note: I have desctribed below the different variations, and wherever possible - the most common fitment of each . . . to the best of my knowledge from having stripped various original engine and gearbox's over the last 40 years, as well as talking to friends and customers where necessary.  However, providing thread and fitment is correct - you may find these plugs styles also fitted to other models, or different to below:

Background and Fitting Notes:

These are CNC manufactured by ourselves, but using original Norton sump plugs as a pattern - which we have copied exactly - including chamfers, grooves (most of these sump plugs have a specific type of groove behind the thread, which I assume was to let the red fibre washer to 'mush out' slightly and give more effective sealing) - and of course, the correct Norton head profiles.  We also linish (with fibre linishers) the head after manufacture to remove burrs, and then finally, every nut is ran down a thread gauge, to ensure the thread is deburred.  We have also manufactured additional varieties with cross-drilled holes for lockwiring - for track and competition use, and also some 'lightened' types with a very pretty drilled head.

Norton sump plugs for Norton singles were manufactured in their 1000's over a 50 year period - and as always there were slight variations and tolerances by batch - but we have compared multiple sump plugs and have tried to adopt 'std' tolerances wherever possible.  However, when fitting, try and ensure the thread fitting you have selected is correct for your model - always grease the thread first, and if not sure - play safe and confirm thread in casing first.

Note - Each of the sump plugs (between 1101_1 and 1101_12) comes supplied with a BSP Dowty sealing washer.  These are much easier to fit than the traditional Red Fibre Washer (which must be a very tight fit onto Norton sump plugs - and are difficult to fit - if they go on easy, they will 'wobble' when they get to the grooved area that all these sump plugs have). 

Dowty sealing washers are a more modern design - consisting of a steel outer with sealing nitrile inner - and are used in most modern fittings for sealing plugs.

We also sell these 1/4" or 1/8" BSP washers seperately (1101_14 and 1101_15 respectively), as ideally they should be replaced every time an oil change is performed.

We can also supply the traditional Red Fibre washers (Item 0091) if youj wish to use the traditional style washer - particularly on the Lipped type washers - but note these are normally a bit more difficult to fit.

Final point - if you have a different type of sump plug to the type shown here, and think it is original (i.e. early 1920's etc) - then feel free to email us and we may consider manufacturing a batch

Breather Pipe (listed in Norton 1948 Spare Parts catalog as Pressure Release Pipe) and 1/4" BSP union nut to fit bevel chamber of all SOHC models (30/40, M30/M40 etc).

These pipes are made from good quality copper and then nickel plated to give an excellent satin finish very similar to the original.  The bend shape and ferrule profile are almost identical to originals (please note - obviously these engines were made for many years, and the profiles did change slightly from year to year - but I took this profile from a pipe I believe to be original).

These pipes were listed as fitting the front bevel chamber (some engines did not fit them though - look for a breather union at the rear of the top bevel chamber face - just behind the magneto chain housing) - however, they can also be used on the front crankcase breather in front of the barrel (left of right) if your engine was fitted with a front breather.  

Note: front breather unions are most common on magnesium SOHC racing crankcases, and can be found on either the left/drive crankcase, or timing side/right crankcase - the 350cc pre-war M40 racing crankcase shown in the photo unusually has two breathers!  Therefore, fitting this U-bend breather pipe is useful for attaching a length of black 3/8" bore breather oil pipe (sold seperately - see Item 0634) to re-direct engine oil vapour down to the bottom of bike onto the road.  

Fitting this breather pipe (and black rubber oil pipe if you wish to do so) adds that finishing touch of originality to your motorcycle - I do it with all my bikes.  And obviously - if you are using your Norton in competition events - you will have to fit these pipes feeding into a 'catch tank' to pass scrutineering.

Breather Pipe (similar to that listed in Norton 1948 Spare Parts catalog as Pressure Release Pipe) and 1/4" BSP union nut to fit bevel chamber of all SOHC models (30/40, M30/M40 etc).  This particular pipe is almost identical to the Item 0627, except the pipe extends down a bit further than 0627.  Although this particular pipe is not listed in the 1948 catalog - I have seen original examples more similar to this version than the short (0627) version.  I also think this version is more suitable on the bevel chamber as it extends the pipe down, making fitting a rubber pipe to its end a little easier.

The rest of this listing is the same as 0627:

These pipes are made from good quality copper and then nickel plated to give an excellent satin finish very similar to the original.  The bend shape and ferrule profile are almost identical to originals (please note - obviously these engines were made for many years, and the profiles did change slightly from year to year - but I took this profile from a pipe I believe to be original).

These pipes were listed as fitting the front bevel chamber (some engines did not fit them though - look for a breather union at the rear of the top bevel chamber face - just behind the magneto chain housing) - however, they can also be used on the front crankcase breather in front of the barrel (left of right) if your engine was fitted with a front breather.  

Note: front breather unions are most common on magnesium SOHC racing crankcases, and can be found on either the left/drive crankcase, or timing side/right crankcase - the 350cc pre-war M40 racing crankcase shown in the photo unusually has two breathers!  Therefore, fitting this U-bend breather pipe is useful for attaching a length of black 3/8" bore breather oil pipe (sold seperately - see Item 0634) to re-direct engine oil vapour down to the bottom of bike onto the road.  

Fitting this breather pipe (and black rubber oil pipe if you wish to do so) adds that finishing touch of originality to your motorcycle - I do it with all my bikes.  And obviously - if you are using your Norton in competition events - you will have to fit these pipes feeding into a 'catch tank' to pass scrutineering.

Complete Cambox Feed pipe and 1/4" BSP union nut's to fit all SOHC models (30/40, M30/M40 etc), with lockwired oil resistent pipe middle piece - so pipe length can be adjusted to suit the height length of your crankcase/barrel/head/cambox combination.  

In addition, as with other breather pipes we sell - we also supply a seperate 12"/300mm length of stainless steel lockwire, in case your engine has an unusually short height and you want to shorten one of the two copper pipes - and then you will have a piece of lockwire available to wire it up again.

These pipes are made from good quality copper with brass connectors and then nickel plated to give an excellent satin finish very similar to the original.  The bend shape and ferrule profile I have tried to faithfully replicate from an original I have.  As you can imagine - over the many years SOHC engines were made there were many variations in the cambox oil pipe shape and form - however, I think the profile we have followed here is aethisically correct looking profile.  

The central section is high quality black oil resistent pipe of the type that would have been originally fitted - with all writing removed (a laborious task - as all modern pipe comes with the makers writing down its length), lockwired on either end with stainless steel lockwire - in the way that original pipes were originally wired

Note: the 1948 Spare Parts catalog (Plate D), shows a solid one piece pipe for the none racing models.  Although I have seen these fitted (rarely) - they are not a good idea because they have to be made for the specific engine they are to be fitted to - i.e. being a 350/500/compression ratio and barrel height can all affect the pipe length and lead to the pipe fracturing if not a perfect fit.  For this reason we only offer this (adjustable) version and do not recommend fitting a solid version - unless it is the original one fitted to your engine.

Final point:  Most aluminium cambox's have a different union position in the casting to the racing (magnesium) cambox's.  These adjustable assemblies allow the pipes and unions to be moved slightly to allow fitment to both types of cambox's.  However - if for any reason you have an unusual combination and this will not easily fit, just let us know and we will offer refund or try to make a replacement to fit (try not to damage fittings when trial fitting though!)

Fitting this breather pipe (and black rubber oil pipe if you wish to do so) adds that finishing touch of originality to your motorcycle - if I say so myself the finished assembly looks really good! 

This is a long breather pipe and 1/4" BSP union nut to fit breather union of type fitted to the front of drive side crankcase (i.e. union is on the left side) - most commonly fitted to magnesium M30 (and early pre-Featherbed Manx) crankcases (although can also be fitted to aluminium crankcases if they have similar front breather union fitted - as they sometimes did).

As the Norton Spare Parts Catalog of the 1930's/40's never showed pictures of the magnesium crankcases, it is difficult to confirm for sure if this type of long breather was listed - but I have copied it from a version I have seen on a friends very original 1940's pre-featherbed Manx engine - and I think it looks very period and proper.

In addition, as with other breather pipes we sell - we also supply a seperate 12"/300mm length of stainless steel lockwire,so you can attach 5/8" bore black rubber breather pipe (sold seperately)

These pipes are made from good quality copper and then nickel plated to give an excellent satin finish very similar to the original. 

Fitting this breather pipe (and black rubber oil pipe if you wish to do so) adds that finishing touch of originality to your motorcycle - as well as re-directing your engine mist away from the engine onto the road or a catch-tank

Note: can also be fitted to aluminium International crankcases if they have a breather union in the same place

April 2021: These are currently out of stock we are having a new batch made which should be available in next 3 months - email at sales@racingvincent.co.uk if you wish to reserve

Crankcase feed pipe to cambox and 1/4" BSP union nut's to fit all SOHC models (30/40, M30/M40 etc) - this is the bottom piece of the cambox feed pipe assembly - which we offer here to be purchased seperately - if you require the full assembly see Item No 0629.

In addition, as with other breather pipes we sell - we also supply a seperate 12"/300mm length of stainless steel lockwire, in case your engine has an unusually short height and you want to shorten one of the two copper pipes - and then you will have a piece of lockwire available to wire it up again.

These pipes are made from good quality copper and then nickel plated to give an excellent satin finish very similar to the original.  The bend shape and ferrule profile I have tried to faithfully replicate from an original I have. 

Crankcase drive side breather pipe that fits on one way valve on SOHC road going International models with Norton oilbath chaincease fitted, includes lockwire for fitting black oil pipe, (if required) 

this is the crankcase drive side breather pipe, and 1/4" BSP union nut' to fit between SOHC engines and the Norton Oilbath chaincases, fitted to roadgoing Norton International models.  It also comes with 1 foot of stainless lockwire, in case you wish to fit an additional lengti of black rubber breather pipe to the end of this pipe.

Note - this listing does not include the actual One Way Valve, which is available seperately - Item 0248

Please note:  as you can see in the 2nd and 3rd photographs - the bend on this breather pipe has a sharp bend initially to stop it from fouling a spanner being fitted to the International Norton rear engine bolt.  Because of this we have found it best to create the initial bend profile on a pipe bender (as we do with most other patterns) but then fit it to an engine with plates - so we can ensure it clears the bolt correctly.  The pipe also has a small kink in it midway to ensure it bends in and does not fould the chaincase.  Because we do this by hand against a real engine - each pipe may just vary slightly from the pattern in the picture.  

Although originally listed for SOHC engines - the OHV/SV engine also fitted a very similar pipe . . . it is almost impossible now to say if the original bend is replicated for these - I have seen so many knocked and bent over the years, but have not reason to think they will not fit OHV/SV just as well (and they can always be given a slight tweak to clear any bolt heads you may want access to)

April 2021: These are currently out of stock we are having a new batch made which should be available in next 3 months - email at sales@racingvincent.co.uk if you wish to reserve

Norton International oil tank top breather pipe.  This pipe was original fitment on the top of half wrapround International oil tanks, feeding the breather pipe over the frame saddle tube. Includes lockwire for fitting black oil pipe (if required).

the fitting is 1/4" BSP and the pipe is satin nickel plated.  This pipe faces backwards and loops over the frame tube (for both rigid and Gardengate frames).  If required an additional black breather pipe can be fitted, and one foot of stainless steel lockwire is included for this purpose

Lockwire:  12"/(approx) 300mm length of Goodrich stainless steel lockwire, for lockwiring breather pipes.

This is a length of good quality lockwire, for wiring up breather pipes (and fuel pipes if required) in a manner that was often done in the 1930's - 50's, particularly on racing bikes.

Best to apply it in the way shown in the second photograph - first run a short length of approximately 2" (50mm) in line with the pipe, bending 90 degrees at the point where you want the lockwire binding to start (i.e. with the tail of the lockwire running out of the end of the rubber pipe).  Then spin the pipe while keeping the lockwire tight with the other hand, creating a number of closely arranged rings around the pipe, and covering the tail of lockwire you had previously laid.  Finally after about 10 turns - bring the wire level with the previously laid tail, cut to the same length and then twist the two tails together - either with lockwire pliers or normal pliers, which should tighten everything up.  Then cut the twisted lockwire approx 0.5"/12mm and bend the twisted element flush to the rings.

Using this lockwire adds a very nice period touch to your restoration - particularly on competition and sports bikes